reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Christopher Coleman, is the “Michael Kors” of the South American versions of Project Runway. He lives with his partner, the Venezuelan fashion designer Angel Sanchez. Christopher and Angel’s Williamsburg apartment was on the cover of 'Architectural Digest Russia' as well as in eleven other design magazines around the whole world, a tribute to a very distinctive style sensibility that, as Christopher candidly says, “photographs well.”

Christopher Coleman and Angel Sanchez will be the first to admit that they don’t always agree when it comes to designing. So combining Coleman’s interior design aesthetic (bold colors and shapes) with Sanchez’s fashion aesthetic (sleek black and white forms) may have seemed like a gamble. But by capitalizing on one another’s strengths, the two are building a joint design empire that rivals their commanding individual visions. “I try to control him in terms of being just decorative, and he always tries to push me in taking more risks,” Sanchez says. “I guess that balances our styles.” 

The designers met in 2001 in Venezuela, where Sanchez, a famed fashion designer who had earned the loyalty of celebrities like Eva Longoria Parker and America Ferrera, was in the process of designing his penthouse apartment. Coleman, a respected interior designer branded by his eclectic approach and permanent sense of humor, collaborated with him on the project. Coleman also helped Sanchez design his showroom, where his new collections are displayed every four months.


Angel Sanchez and Christopher Coleman
Angel Sanchez and Christopher Coleman met in 2001 in Venezuela, where Sanchez, a famed fashion designer who had earned the loyalty of celebrities like Eva Longoria Parker and America Ferrera, was in the process of designing his penthouse apartment. Coleman, a respected interior designer branded by his eclectic approach and permanent sense of humor, collaborated with him on the project. Coleman also helped Sanchez design his showroom, where his new collections are displayed every four months.

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Source: http://www.cityist.com/features/christopher_colman_and_angel_sanchez/ (Sense of Balance, This design duo has distinct style, without compromising individual tastes, Story by Maria Qualtere / Photography by Hisham Bharoocha)

Further Readings )

More Fashion Designers at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Art

More Designers at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Art
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Simon Doonan (born 1952) is the Creative Ambassador-at-Large of the New York City-based clothing store Barneys.

Doonan comes from the English town of Reading. His first retail job was a summer position at Heelas, a department store in Reading, owned by the John Lewis Partnership. After returning to work at the same store after university, he first got involved in the art of window dressing. He later left Reading for London and dressed windows at Aquascutum before moving to Nutters of Savile Row.

Invited to dress his windows by the proprietor of Maxfield, a department store in Los Angeles, Doonan moved to the United States in 1978. He joined the Barneys staff in 1986 as a window dresser.

In addition to his work at Barneys, he writes a column on style for Slate. Previously, he wrote a similar column for The New York Observer.

In his book, Eccentric Glamour, he decried porno chic in Western society in general. Interviewed for an article for the New York Daily News, he said, "There are two horribly worrying trends! Celebrities are becoming so gun-shy that there is no diversity, no sense of fun on the red carpet. There's no experimentation — which is incredibly important to fashion." On "porno chic," (the second trend) he said, "Imagine if you said to people 20 years ago that, in 2008, a significant number of women would be going around dressing like porno stars with fake hooters and butt cracks showing? No one would have believed you."


Jonathan Adler and Simon Doonan with their Norwich Terrier Liberace, Lagerfeld exibition, Givenchy, 2006
Simon Doonan is the Creative Ambassador-at-Large of the NYC-based clothing store Barneys. In September 2008, he married his partner of 14 years, designer Jonathan Adler, in California. Doonan and Adler live in New York City with their Norwich Terrier, Liberace. Jonathan Adler is an iconic potter, designer, author, & personality. Adler launched his first ceramic collection in 1993 at Barneys New York. 5 years years later he expanded into home furnishings, opening his first boutique in Manhattan.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simon_Doonan

Jonathan Adler (born in 1966 in New Jersey, United States) is an iconic potter, designer, author, and personality. Adler launched his first ceramic collection in 1993 at Barneys New York. Five years years later he expanded into home furnishings, opening his first namesake boutique in Manhattan.

Jonathan Adler now has nineteen stores worldwide, a thriving e-commerce site, and a wholesale business boasting over 1,000 locations worldwide. While remaining committed to ceramic design, Jonathan has now grown far beyond the potter’s wheel to become an internationally recognized design brand offering decorative objects, tabletop collections, bedding, bath accessories, gifts, candles, furniture, rugs, pillows, lighting, and most recently handbags. Adler is dedicated to bringing style, craft and positivity to your home.

Jonathan’s creativity is fueled by various sources of inspiration: Mid-century modern, art and global pop culture combine to create the signature Adler aesthetic. The company prides itself on its ability to combine a serious design philosophy with a colorful sense of optimism. The guiding motto, "If your heirs won't fight over it, we won't make it," reflects Jonathan’s commitment to impeccable craftsmanship and irreverent luxury.

In addition to designing furniture and product, Jonathan has collaborated with many notable brands. In 2004, Jonathan redesigned the iconic California hotel, The Parker Palm Springs. In 2009, Mattel called upon Jonathan to design the modern-glam interiors for the “real” Barbie™ Dream House in celebration of Barbie’s 50th anniversary. He designed Starbucks 2010 (RED)™ card and mug which directly benefits The Global Fund, and most recently Jonathan was selected as LACOSTE’s 6th Annual Collectors series artist, debuting Holiday 2011.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jonathan_Adler

Further Readings )

More Fashion Designers at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Art

More Designers at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Art

More LGBT Couples at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Real Life Romance
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Jason Wu (born September 27, 1982) is a Taiwanese-Canadian fashion designer based in New York City. He is most famous for designing the dresses of Michelle Obama on several occasions, including during first and second inauguration of American President Barack Obama. He is in a relationship with Gustavo Rangel, who is also his business partner. (Photo: Marcelo Krasilcic, Patrik Shaw | China in my Hand)

"At first, we were friends -- I don’t remember when that line became blurry. I didn’t think he was my type, but things changed. When it’s unexpected, that’s the best—in anything in life, not just a boyfriend. Our first date was Mary Poppins, which is funny, but it turned into a romantic night.

When my company started growing, I asked Gus to help -- we work from different sides of the brain -- and he always works from the practical side. Like, when we’re shopping, he pulls me back and says, “Don’t buy that.” That’s how our relationship has played out. Working and living with someone -- that’s intense. We have to leave the baggage behind and have a personal life. We have that balance. We walk home, and once we go from the West to the East, there’s no more work talk. At Fifth Avenue, it ends.

It’s good to have someone that is real and honest. Sometimes you don’t see who you are after a long time, especially if you’re busy and working toward something. It’s nice to have someone who’s a mirror. You may not always like what you see, but it’s true." --Jason Wu (http://www.out.com/fashion/2012/01/11/jason-wu-boyfriend-gustavo-rangel-design)


Photo by Martien Mulder
Jason Wu is a Taiwanese-Canadian fashion designer based in New York City. He is most famous for designing the dresses of Michelle Obama on several occasions, including during first and second inauguration of American President Barack Obama. He is in a relationship with Gustavo Rangel, who is also his business partner. "We first met at a friend’s house on New Year’s Eve in 2005 and became friends. After about six months, it started to develop into something more." Gustavo Rangel



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Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jason_Wu

Further Readings )

More Fashion Designers at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Art

More LGBT Couples at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Real Life Romance
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Sighsten Herrgård (January 8, 1943 - 20 November 1989) was a Swedish fashion designer. Herrgård was the first Swedish celebrity with AIDS to go public about it, "giving AIDS a face".

Sighsten Herrgård received his fashion education at Beckmans School of Design in Stockholm and at the pattern development academies in Stockholm and Copenhagen. His career took off in 1966 when he won the Courtauld International Design Competition with a collection of unisex clothing. In the 1970s Herrgård established internationally in Paris and North America; he also started a company in Stockholm and worked with television, magazines and shows.

Sighsten Herrgård wrote his 
memoirs with Carl Otto Werkelid just before he died. Sighsten name was Sixten, but to modernize his name, he chose to spell it in a different way. Modern, he was also in many other areas: he launched unisex overalls and he was elected in 1969 one of the world's ten best-dressed men. Back in the late '60s, he was an internationally successful fashion designer.

From the mid -70s Sixten managed the Stockholmsgruppen, at the time a well-known modeling agency, and he retained the role until his health began to fail.

The saddest thing in Herrgård's memoirs is the portrayal of Roar, the man who lived with Herrgård for a number of years. Roar, who was a monogamous type like Herrgård, was the one who first succumbed to the virus which eventually ended even Sighsten's life.


Roar Klingenberg & Sighsten Herrgård and their dog Igor. A journalist argued that Tich and Igor, Herrgård's two Grand danoiser, were the most stylish accessories he ever had (©2)
Sighsten Herrgård was a Swedish fashion designer. Herrgård was the first Swedish celebrity with AIDS to go public about it, "giving AIDS a face". The saddest thing in Herrgård's memoirs is the portrayal of his lover Roar. Roar, who was a monogamous type like Herrgård, was the one who first succumbed to the virus which eventually ended even Sighsten's life. 




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Source: http://www.ravjagarn.se/blogg/tag/sighsten-herrgard/ (translated from Swedish)

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Jacques Fath (born Maisons-Laffitte, France, 6 September 1912 – Paris, France, 13 November 1954) was a French fashion designer who was considered one of the three dominant influences on postwar haute couture, the others being Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain.

The son of André Fath, an Alsatian-Flemish insurance agent, Fath came from a creative family. His paternal great-grandparents, Caroline and Theodore-Georges Fath, were a fashion illustrator and writer, and his paternal grandfather, Rene-Maurice Fath, was a landscape painter.

Fath presented his first collection in 1937, working out of a two room salon on Rue de la Boetie. The studio was later moved to a second location on Rue Francois Premier in 1940 before settling into a third location at 39 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie in 1944. Among his models was Lucie Daouphars (1921 or 1922–1963), a.k.a. Lucky, a former welder who eventually become the top house model for Christian Dior.

As self-taught designer who learned his craft from studying museum exhibitions and books about fashion, Fath hired a number of young designers as assistants and apprentices, some of which later went on to form their own houses, including Hubert de Givenchy, Guy Laroche, and Valentino Garavani.


Jacques Fath was a French fashion designer who was considered one of the dominant influences on postwar haute couture, the others being Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain. Fath married, in 1939, Geneviève Boucher de la Bruyère. The bride was a former model from an aristocratic family who had been a secretary to Coco Chanel. According to Fath's friend, Princess Giovanna Pignatelli Aragona Cortés, Geneviève, who directed the business side of her husband's firm during his lifetime, was a lesbian.


Lady Alexandra Howard-Johnston (1907-97) was the wife of the Naval Attaché to Paris at the end of the 1940s. She required an extensive wardrobe for the many formal dinners and state functions that she had to attend.
Fath designed this dress for Lady Alexandra to wear for the official visit of Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip to Paris in May 1948. Lady Alexandra recalled that when she arrived at the Théâtre de l’Opéra with her husband, the Garde Nationale suddenly sprang to attention. ‘I realised they had mistaken us for the Princess and Duke. That was the effect made by my splendid Fath’
(Victoria & Albert Museum)

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jacques_Fath

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Costello Tagliapietra is a fashion house, established in New York, founded and directed by Jeffrey Costello (born in Bristol, Pennsylvania, January 15) and Robert Tagliapietra (born in New York, August 14).

Born in Bristol, Pennsylvania, Jeffrey Costello moved to New York during his teenage years and began his career in fashion by designing clothing for a variety of downtown actresses and musicians. In 1994, he met partner, New York native and Parson`s School of Design graduate, Robert Tagliapietra and together they created Costello Tagliapietra.

Spring 2005 marked the premier of the Costello Tagliapietra collection on the New York runways. The designers went on to win the 2005 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award and presented their second well-received collection, of twenty—four looks, in which Style.com called "expertly executed." Costello Tagliapietra were named finalists of the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund both in 2005 and 2006. In the summer of 2006, both designers were elected to the CFDA.

Playing with the tension between fabric, drape and silhouette, the designers created a unique vision, both elegant and timeless, that borders on the couture in technique and process. Robert and Jeffrey were both taught at an early age by their grandmothers the finer points of tailoring. Both grandmothers, coincidentally, worked for Norman Norell in the l960`s. As children, the designers learned couture techniques in patternmaking and construction. And through their years of creating custom wardrobes for private clients. they honed their skills at designing the perfect fitting garment.


Costello Tagliapietra is a fashion house, established in New York, founded and directed by Jeffrey Costello (born in Bristol, Pennsylvania) and Robert Tagliapietra (born in New York). Jeffrey Costello moved to New York during his teenage years and began his career in fashion by designing clothing for a variety of downtown actresses and musicians. In 1994, he met partner, New York native and Parson`s School of Design graduate, Robert Tagliapietra and together they created Costello Tagliapietra.



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Source: http://www.costellotagliapietra.com

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Tailor Ben Zuckerman (WWD called him "America's Balenciaga") pulled over at a New Jersey gas station, fell in love with the young man pumping the gas and drove away with him. The attractive grease monkey was a boxer between bouts named Harry Schacter. Ben taught him a little about fashion, made him his designing partner and the two gentlemen prospered as a happy couple. (P: From the Palm Beach Journal, January 1965, Ben Zuckerman, Dean of American Fashion, relaxes before he shows his Spring and Summer collection at Martha's, the high end boutique in Palm Beach. Mr Zuckerman had some interesting observations on the state of fashion in 1965. 'I like some of the kooky clothes.' he said, 'They're cute on the girls they are designed for, but they're not for the ladies. I only make lady clothes.' Zuckerman stated as well that he preferred to create for the 'tailored woman' rather than the 'soft romantic'. After 40 years in the business he was still attracting new customers, who often placed orders of over $60,000 a season. One store alone sold over half a million dollars each year of Ben Zuckerman dresses, suits and coats.)

Known as the Master Tailor of Seventh Avenue, Ben Zuckerman was that unique combination of owner and designer. He was a major influence in leading American women toward more dramatic and colorful coats and suits. Zuckerman closed his company in 1968, and died on August 9, 1979 at age 89.

The average wage for Americans in 1958 was $4650, and Ben Zuckerman's outfits, orginally priced around $535 represented about 12% of the average wage earner's yearly income. Ben Zuckerman clothing would have been out of the reach of most Americans.


Ben Zuckerman suit, from the 1960's in a grey checked wool with scalloped pockets and a satin bow at the neck in a complimentary colour.
Ben Zuckerman immigrated to America from Romania to live and work in New York’s garment district. Around 1950 he pulled over at a New Jersey gas station, fell in love with the young man pumping the gas and drove away with him. The attractive grease monkey was a boxer between bouts named Harry Shacter. Ben taught him a little about fashion, made him his designing partner and the two men prospered as a happy couple. Known as the Master Tailor of Seventh Avenue, Ben Zuckerman was that unique combination of owner and designer.


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Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Oreste Francesco Pucciani was born in Cleveland on April 7, 1916, the son of a candy manufacturer. He attended the Cleveland public schools and graduated summa cum laude and Phi Beta Kappa from Adelbert College, Western Reserve University (now Case Western University) in 1939. He took his doctorate in Romance languages from Harvard in 1943. In 1946-47, Pucciani studied in France and Italy on a Sheldon Traveling Fellowship, meeting Sartre and his companion Simone de Beauvoir. Returning to the United States in 1947, Pucciani lectured at Harvard, before joining the faculty of the University of California Los Angeles as an Assistant Professor of French in 1948. He was became an Associate Professor in 1954, and a full Professor in 1960. He was chairman of the French department from 1961 to 1966, and became emeritus in 1979. (P: The Original Mattanite Society)

Pucciani's scholarly interests were diverse. His doctoral dissertation was devoted to the reception of Walt Whitman in France. The French Theater since 1930 (1954) remains a useful anthology of French theater in the years between the world wars. He also published a well regarded translation of Racine's masterpiece Phédre in 1961. But Pucciani is best known as an interpreter of the philosophy of Jean-Paul Sartre, and pioneered in teaching courses on Sartre at UCLA before the philosopher's works were translated into English.

In addition to his work on Sartre, Pucciani was well known as a theorist on methods of language acquisition. He had studied with Emile B. de Sauzé at Western Reserve in the 1930s, and was an ardent champion of Sauzé's "direct method" of language teaching, in which all instruction, including explanations of grammar and vocabulary, is given in the target language. In the late 1950s, Pucciani pioneered in adapting the direct method (still little known outside the Cleveland public schools) to the UCLA French Department's language program. The highly successful and influential textbook, Langue et Langage, published by Pucciani and Jacqueline Hamel in 1967, described the department's experience with the direct method, and revealed the advantages of immediate and total immersion in a foreign tongue.


Rudi Gernreich was an Austrian-born American fashion designer who introduced the monokini in 1964. Gernreich met Harry Hay in July 1950, and the two became lovers for 2 years. In 1953, Gernreich met Oreste Pucciani, chairman of the UCLA French department, who was a key figure in bringing Jean-Paul Sartre to the attention of American educators. In 1988, after Gernreich's death, Pucciani established the ACLU Rudi Gernreich-Oreste Pucciani Endowment Fund to support the fight for GLBT rights.

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Source: http://www.oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/kt1n39r3q8/

Rudi Gernreich (August 8, 1922 – April 21, 1985) was an Austrian-born American fashion designer who introduced the single-piece topless monokini in 1964, and had a long, unconventional, and trend-setting career in fashion design. He was also an early gay activist who helped fund the early activities of the Mattachine Society.

Gernreich was born in Vienna, Austria. His father was a stocking manufacturer who committed suicide when Gernreich was eight years old. Gernreich learned about feminine fashion in his aunt’s dress shop.

After the German Anschluss (when Nazi Germany annexed Austria) on March 12, 1938, Hitler, among many other acts, banned nudity. Austrian citizens were advocates of exercising nude, a rejection of the over-civilized world, which may have influenced Gernreich's later designs. His mother and Rudi escaped to the United States as Jewish refugees, settling in Los Angeles, California. Gernreich was very much against sexualization of the human body and the notion that the body was essentially shameful. 

Initially, his mother survived by baking pastries that Rudi sold door-to-door. His first job was washing bodies before autopsy at the morgue of Cedars of Lebanon Hospital. He told Marylou Luther, “I grew up overnight. I do smile sometimes when people tell me my clothes are so body-conscious [that] I must have studied anatomy. You bet I studied anatomy.” He attended Los Angeles City College, where he studied art and apprenticed for a Seventh Avenue clothing manufacturer. He attended the Los Angeles Art Center School from 1941 to 1942.

Read more... )

Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudi_Gernreich

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (andrew potter)
This post is strictly related to the one I posted sometime ago about Bill Harris, Jack Fontan, Ray Hunger and Alexander Jensen Yow (http://elisa-rolle.livejournal.com/1347308.html), i.e. it's about those beautiful men whose beauty still fascinates us from glossy black an white pictures. They were friends, lovers and sometime long-time partners of photographers, painters, writers, and sometime they were kept men, like Bill Miller. Today I will tell you the story of Otis Bigelow "the best-looking man in Manhattan in 1940, the one who had chosen a beautiful sailor over a suntanned millionaire", only to be betrayed by the beautiful sailor with the same suntanned millionaire, and the one who inspired Gordon Merrick to write the first "happily ever after" Gay Romance; the beautiful sailor was Bill Miller, a man who is listed at the Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library at Yale where his papers are collected as "designer" but of whom you will not find any info on the net as an artist, but plenty you will find as a lover of millionaires and notable artists. He collaborated with Kinsey, sharing his personal journals where he recorded all his sexual encounters with various men. (Picture left: Otis Bigelow, right: Bill Miller)

Following an excerpt from The Gay Metropolis: The Landmark History of Gay Life in America by Charles Kaiser:

"Otis Bigelow lived in Manhattan. He would never think of himself the same way again after the summer of 1942. Bigelow turned twenty-two that June. A striking native of Exeter, New Hampshire, where his father had been a master at the Phillips Exeter Academy, Bigelow was an only child.


Otis Munro Bigelow III was a playwright and theatrical agent whose varied career in the performing arts included acting and dancing. He was the best-looking man in Manhattan in 1940, the one who had chosen a beautiful sailor (Christian William “Bill” Miller) over a suntanned millionaire (George Gallowhur), only to be betrayed by the beautiful sailor with the same suntanned millionaire. Otis is also the one who inspired his then roommate Gordon Merrick to write his happily ever after gay romances. Otis M. Bigelow died in 2007 and was survived by Thierry Mahe, his life partner of more than 50 years.

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Otis Munro Bigelow III, the best-looking man in Manhattan in 1940, the one who had chosen a beautiful sailor over a suntanned millionaire, was a playwright and retired theatrical agent whose varied career in the performing arts included acting and dancing. He was born on June 2, 1920, in Exeter, NH. The only child of Otis M., who taught Romance languages at Phillips Exeter Academy, and Ruth Spalding Bigelow, he prepared for college at Phillips Exeter, where he took the lead in theatrical productions. As a teenager, "Ote" Bigelow had already performed in summer stock and looked forward to a stage career.

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Monroe Wheeler and Glenway Wescott’s friends included a number of younger lovers. One, Christian William Miller, or Bill Miller (August 7, 1921 - 1995), had been one of the most strikingly beautiful of George Platt Lynes’s models. Miller was a lover of Wheeler’s and a family friend for many years. A later Wheeler intimate, Ralph Pomeroy, remembered, "Bill would go to a gallery and all the women and all the men would faint!" Wescott’s young friend Bernard Perlin said, "Bill Miller was ga-ga-gorgeous!" (Glenway Wescott Personally: A Biography by Jerry Rosco)



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Richard Barr (6 September 1917 – 9 January 1989) was an award-winning American theater director and producer. He served as the president of the League of American Theatres and Producers from 1967 until his death.

Richard Barr was born on 6 September 1917 in Washington, D.C. under the name Richard Baer to parents David Alphonse Baer and Ruth Nanette Israel. In 1938, he graduated from Princeton University, where he had acted in various plays. From 1941 through 1945, Barr served as a Second Lieutenant in the United States Air Force in World War II. He died of AIDS-related liver failure at Mount Sinai Hospital on 9 January 1989.

Richard Barr began his theatrical career as an actor in the company of Orson Welles at the Mercury Theatre. His first professional appearance came there in a production of Danton's Death in 1938. Later that year, he took part in the infamous radio broadcast of The War of the Worlds. Other than a brief stint of variety theatre at the Provincetown Playhouse in 1940, Barr remained with the company until he left for the war in 1941. After the war, Barr became an accomplished director and producer. In 1961, he won his first drama desk award. His 1962 original Broadway production of Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf? earned him two Tony Awards: Best Play and Best Producer (dramatic). His 1979 original Broadway production of Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street earned him the Drama Desk Award for Outstanding Musical and the Tony Award for Best Musical. In 1967 Barr was elected president of what was then known as the League of American Theatres and Producers, an office he would hold until his death in 1989. As president he shifted Broadway's curtain times from 8:30 PM to 7:30 PM in an effort to bring in more businessmen during the weeknights. The experiment was considered a success, though curtain times were later shifted to 8:00 PM, where they have remained to this day.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Barr
In 1938, Otis Bigelow, later a playwright and theatrical agent, while performing summer stock in Rye Beach, New Hampshire, met Gordon Merrick, an actor who had just graduated from Princeton. Bigelow and Merrick used to kiss, but nothing more. Although they shared an apartment when they reached New York, Bigelow was still planning to marry a woman. And quite quickly Gordon decided that he was "very into not being gay," Bigelow recalled.
Three decades later, Merrick wrote The Lord Won't Mind, one of the first gay novels to become a best-seller in the seventies, and he modeled one of its beautiful young men after Bigelow. The other man sharing their apartment was Richard Barr, another Princeton graduate who went to work for the Mercury Theatre that fall and partecipated in Orson Welles's menacing broadcast of The War of the Worlds. Later, Barr became one of the Broadway's most illustrious impresarios. He was Edward Albee's confidant and produced many of Albee's most important plays, including The Zoo Story, Tiny Alice and Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf? He coproduced Mart Crowley's The Boys in the Band in 1968, and, eleven years later, Stephen Sondheim's Sweeney Todd. For twenty-one years, he was president of the League of American Theatres and Producers. --The Gay Metropolis: The Landmark History of Gay Life in America by Charles Kaiser


Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Pierre Bergé (born 14 November 1930) is a French industrialist and patron. He is the co-founder of Yves Saint Laurent Couture House and onetime life partner and longtime business partner of the late fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent.

Bergé was born in Oléron (Charente-Maritime). His mother Christiane was an amateur soprano and a progressive teacher who used the Montessori method. His father worked for the tax office and was a great rugby enthusiast. Bergé attended the Lycée Eugène Fromentin in La Rochelle, and later went to Paris. On the day of his arrival, as he was walking on the Champs-Élysées, French poet Jacques Prévert landed on him following a fall from his apartment window. During these early years in Paris, Bergé befriended the young French artist Bernard Buffet and was a great help in facilitating Buffet's success.

Bergé met Yves Saint Laurent in 1958. They became romantically involved and together launched Yves Saint Laurent Couture House in 1961. The couple split amicably in 1976 but remained lifelong friends and business partners. Bergé acted as C.E.O. of Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture until it shuttered in 2002. Highly protective of and invested in the reputation and legacy of Saint Laurent Couture, Bergé was known as the "Dean of Yves Saint Laurent" According to The New York Times, a few days before Saint Laurent died in 2008, he and Bergé were joined in a same-sex civil union known as a Pacte civil de solidarité (PACS) in France.


Yves Saint Laurent was a French fashion designer. Pierre Bergé is a French industrialist and patron. He is the co-founder of Yves Saint Laurent Couture House and onetime life partner and longtime business partner of the late fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. Bergé met Yves Saint Laurent in 1958. They became romantically involved and together launched Yves Saint Laurent Couture House in 1961. The couple split amicably in 1976 but remained lifelong friends and business partners.



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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Berg%C3%A9

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, known as Yves Saint Laurent (August 1, 1936 – June 1, 2008), was a French fashion designer, and is regarded as one of the greatest names in fashion history. In 1985, Caroline Rennolds Milbank wrote, "The most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture's rise from its sixties ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable." He is also credited with having introduced the tuxedo suit for women and was known for his use of non-European cultural references, and non-White models.

Three documentaries have been made about Saint Laurent's life: David Teboul's "Yves Saint Laurent: His Life and Times" (2002), "Yves Saint Laurent: 5 Avenue Marceau 75116 Paris" (2002), and Pierre Thoretton's "L'Amour Fou" (2009).

Yves Henri-Donat Matthieu-Saint Laurent was born on August 1, 1936, in Oran, Algeria, to Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. He grew up in a villa by the Mediterranean with his two younger sisters, Michèle and Brigitte. Yves liked to create intricate paper dolls, and by his early teen years he was designing dresses for his mother and sisters. At the age of 18, Saint Laurent moved to Paris and enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, where his designs quickly gained notice. Michel De Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue, introduced Saint Laurent to designer Christian Dior, a giant in the fashion world. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak in front of him. He taught me the basis of my art. Whatever was to happen next, I never forgot the years I spent at by his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's style continued to mature and gain still more notice.

Yves Saint Laurent & Pierre Berg� )

Yves Saint Laurent )

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_%28designer%29

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Edgar Domingo Evia y Joutard, known professionally as Edgar de Evia (July 30, 1910 – February 10, 2003), was a Mexican-born American photographer. In the 1950s, de Evia's companion and business partner was Robert Denning, who worked in his studio and who would become a leading American interior designer and partner in the firm Denning & Fourcade. From 1966 until his death, de Evia's companion and business partner was David McJonathan-Swarm. (P: D C McJonathanEdgar de Evia as a student taken by the subject on a tripod, 1928)

In a career that spanned the 1940s through the 1990s, his photography appeared in magazines and newspapers such as Town & Country, House & Garden, Look and The New York Times Magazine and advertising campaigns for Borden Ice Cream, Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corporation, Jell-O among other corporations.

De Evia was born in Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico. His mother was Pauline Joutard (1890–1957), a French-born pianist who performed under the stage name Miirrha Alhambra. His father was Domingo Fernando Evia y Barbachano (1883–1977), a wealthy landowner who was a member of two families that have been prominent in the politics and culture of Yucatán since the mid 19th century, one of which, the Barbachanos, has been described as "one of the most powerful of Yucatán's oligarchy."

His great-grandfather Don Miguel Barbachano y Tarrazo (1806–1859) was a five-time governor of Yucatán and the patriarch of a clan that was instrumental in developing the Mexican resorts of Cozumel and Playas de Rosarito in Baja California Norte and in popularizing the ruins of Chichen Itza as a tourist attraction. Among his cousins was Manuel Barbachano Ponce, the Mexican film producer and director.


Robert Denning in photograph taken by Edgar de Evia in the 1950s
Robert Denning (March 13, 1927–August 26, 2005) was an American interior designer whose lush interpretations of French Victorian decor became an emblem of corporate raider tastes in the 1980s. He was just fifteen when he met Edgar de Evia. As Edgar's career as a professional photographer launched, Bob and Edgar formed "Edgar deEvia Associates". Later after the success of the Body by Fisher campaign for General Motors with photos by deEvia they also formed "Edgar de Evia Associates of Greenwich."


Private Collection David McJonathan. David McJonathan-Swarm taken by photographer Edgar de Evia about 1968.
Edgar de Evia (July 30, 1910 – February 10, 2003) was a Mexican-born American photographer. From 1966 until his death, de Evia's companion and business partner was David McJonathan-Swarm. In a career that spanned the 1940s through the 1990s, his photography appeared in magazines and newspapers such as Town & Country, House & Garden, Look and The New York Times Magazine and advertising campaigns for Borden Ice Cream, Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corporation, Jell-O among other corporations.


Edgar de Evia was often using the ornate backgrounds of the historic Rhinelander Mansion in New York—much of which he leased in the 1950s and 1960s, used as his residence, and often rented out portions of as studios and offices. The Gertrude Rhinelander Waldo House is a French Renaissance revival mansion located at 867 Madison Avenue on the corner of East 72nd Street in the Lenox Hill neighborhood of Manhattan, New York City. Completed in 1898 and specifically credited to Alexander Mackintosh.

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Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edgar_de_Evia

Robert Denning (March 13, 1927 – August 26, 2005) was an American interior designer whose lush interpretations of French Victorian decor became an emblem of corporate raider tastes in the 1980s. (P: Robert Denning sitting in front of a portrait of Vincent Fourcade)

Born Robert Dennis Besser to Jean (née Rosen) and Jacob Besser, Denning, as he was often called, developed an early interest in his body and health, a characteristic instilled in him by his mother. He was just fifteen when he met Edgar de Evia who was the research assistant to Dr. Guy Beckley Stearns and would go on to become a noted photographer. He became a testing subject for this Homeopathic medical research and when his parents and younger brother moved to Florida, he stayed in New York City living with de Evia and his mother Miirrha Alhambra. He would often say that he saw his first lampshade in this home, as he grew up with a bare bulb being adequate. His first effort with decorating was perhaps in imitation of Syrie Maugham when Edgar and he, painted everything in Miirrha's room white and put her bed on a dais. Her only response was: "Did you have to paint even my Baccarat perfume bottles?" He never used white again.

David Chimay and Robert Denning were early associates of Edgar's. As Edgar's career as a professional photographer launched, Bob and Edgar formed "Edgar de Evia Associates" and retained David Chimay as their agent. Later after the success of the Body by Fisher campaign for General Motors with photos by deEvia they also formed "Edgar de Evia Associates of Greenwich."

Bob in the early 1960's went on in partnership with Vincent Fourcade to form Denning & Fourcade the renowned decorating firm that has done many homes on both sides of the Atlantic. Vincent Fourcade (1934–1992) worked for 33 years with his partner, Robert Denning, and was known for his opulent style.


Robert Denning and Edgar de Evia in Robert Denning's apartment at the Lombardy Hotel, 2002


Casual grandeur: The decorators Robert Denning, left, and Vincent Fourcade, in 1988. Copyright 2006 The New York Times Company
Robert Denning in the early 1960's went on in partnership with Vincent Fourcade to form Denning & Fourcade the renowned decorating firm that has done many homes on both sides of the Atlantic. Vincent Fourcade (1934–1992) worked for 33 years with his partner, Robert Denning, and was known for his opulent style. Denning 'reinvented' himself to use his own word, after Vincent Fourcade's death from AIDS in 1992. He died in his apartment in the Lombardy Hotel in New York City in 2005.


Feliciano Photography, originally published in House & Garden. This Manhattan apartment bears the opulent stamp of Denning & Fourcade. But Denning was no snob; he thought nothing of suggesting a folding plastic table from a drugstore for a decorative accessory. Copyright 2006 The New York Times Company

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Denning

Vincent Gabriel Fourcade (27 February 1934 – 23 December 1992) was a French interior designer and the business and life partner of Robert Denning. "Outrageous luxury is what our clients want," he once said.

"Born...to a family of distinguished French aesthetes, the designer spent many of his formative years in a twenty-bedroom house replete with made-to-order Majorelle furnishings." "I learned my trade by going out every evening as a young man," he told art historian Rosamond Bernier. "I went to every pretty house in France and Italy and other places too, and I remembered them all, even down to what was on each little table." Vincent was educated at University College London.

A handsome eligible bachelor, he was never without invitations in the United States either. He tried a career in banking, the business of his father and grandfather in Paris. He met Robert Denning in 1959. Denning a protégé of Edgar de Evia, had acquired an eye for design and effect from working with the photographer on sets for many fabric and furniture accounts, and with whom he shared one of the most magnificent Manhattan apartments on the top three floors of the Rhinelander Mansion. It would be here that early clients such as Lillian Bostwick Phipps and her husband Ogden Phipps would be entertained as de Evia was spending more and more time on his estate in Greenwich, Connecticut. While Vincent would take Ogden Phipps to good dealers where he would spend millions of dollars on signed pieces of French furniture, Bob would take Lillian Bostwick Phipps down to 11th Street. "It infuriated Vincent. He used to say 'Bobby, you have ruined the Phippses for me by giving Mrs. Phipps that strange appetite for 11th Street.'"

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Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vincent_Fourcade

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Robert Gordon "Bob" Mackie (born March 24, 1940 in Monterey Park, California) is an American fashion designer, best known for his costuming for entertainment icons such as Cher, Judy Garland, Diana Ross, Liza Minnelli, Tina Turner, and Mitzi Gaynor. He was the costume designer for The Carol Burnett Show during its entire 11 year run and designed the costumes for the 1993 television adaptation of Gypsy.

On 14 March 1960, Mackie married LuLu Porter (née Marianne Wolford), a singer, actress, and later an acting teacher. She had given birth to the couple's only child, a son, Robert Gordon Mackie Jr. (aka Robin Mackie), the previous year. The couple divorced in 1963, and Robin Mackie, a makeup artist, died in 1994 of an AIDS-related illness.

Mackie's life partner was costume designer Ray Aghayan, whom Mackie had started working with as an assistant. The two worked together on projects at least through the 1970s, as well as having separate clients.

Mackie is also known for his exclusive dress designs for collector's edition Barbie dolls.

Mackie designed costumes for the Las Vegas Strip-based burlesque shows, Hallelujah Hollywood, which was inspired by the Ziegfeld Follies and ran at the MGM Grand (now Bally's Las Vegas) from 1974 to 1980, and Jubilee!, which has been running since 1981. Both productions involve intricate, elaborate costumes and grandiose sets. Images of many of Mackie’s design drawings for these productions are available in the Showgirls collection from UNLV Libraries Digital Collections.


Gorgen Ray Aghayan was a costume designer in the United States film industry. He won an Emmy Award in 1967 with his partner Bob Mackie for his work in Alice Through the Looking Glass. Aghayan was the lifetime partner of costume designer Bob Mackie for nearly 50 years. Aghayan was also nominated for an Academy Award for Costume Design three times for his work (Gaily, Gaily, Lady Sings the Blues, Funny Lady). Aghayan died on October 10, 2011 at his home in Los Angeles, California.


Bob Mackie Gown Worn by Cher in 1988 - Fred Leighton Jewelry

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bob_Mackie

Gorgen Ray Aghayan (July 28, 1928 – October 10, 2011) was a costume designer in the United States film industry. He won an Emmy Award in 1967 with his partner Bob Mackie for his work in Alice Through the Looking Glass. Aghayan was also nominated for an Academy Award for Costume Design three times for his work in "Gaily, Gaily" in 1970, "Lady Sings the Blues" in 1973 and "Funny Lady" in 1976. He was also responsible for designing the costumes for the opening and closing ceremonies of the 1984 Summer Olympics held in Los Angeles. (Picture: Ray Aghayan with Judy Garland)

Aghayan was the lifetime partner of costume designer Bob Mackie for nearly 50 years.

Aghayan died on October 10, 2011 at his home in Los Angeles, California.




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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ray_Aghayan

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More Fashion Designers at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Art

More Real Life Romances at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Real Life Romance
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
James Amster was an interior decorator known for his traditional design style and his longstanding community involvement on the East Side. He died of leukemia on June 12, 1986, at the Mount Sinai Medical Center. He was 77 years old and lived in Manhattan. His partner of 41 years was Robert Moyer (born 1915). Mr. Amster created the landmark Amster Yard, an enclave at 211 1/2 East 49th Street, which he developed in 1944. The yard began with a 19th-century tenement, a boarding house, a couple of shacks and a scarred piece of land. When Amster died in 1986, Moyer continued to live there until 1992 and he was the last tenant to leave. Previous tenants include: fashion designer Norman Norell, interior designer Billy Baldwin, sculptor Isamu Noguchi, and the firm SWID Towell. Architect Ted Sandier and artist Harold Sterner helped Amster in renovating the yard.

In 1967, Mike Wallace anchored the documentary CBS Reports: The Homosexuals. He told he was close friends with James Amster and Amster's male long-term companion, men whom Wallace later described as "a wonderful old married couple" and "both people that he admired".

More than a decade after moving out, in 2003, Robert K. Moyer returned at the age of 88 to the tranquil embrace of Amster Yard. He held his hand to his cheek in astonishment. ''My head is swimming,'' he said. ''I'm home.''

Mr. Moyer could see waiters dressed as French sailors and tureens full of pâté at a long-ago Bastille Day party. He could spy Jacqueline Kennedy stopping at the Greek Island handicraft store across the yard. He could point to the apartments of the designer Norman Norell and the decorator Billy Baldwin. He could envision the antique bottles that workers once dug up, testifying to the days when this spot was a way station on the Boston Post Road.


A party at the home of James Amster in New York City's famed Amster Yard complex. From left, the butler (with back to camera), James Amster, Marian Hall, Ruby Ross Wood (seated), Billy Baldwin, William Pahlman, and Elizabeth Draper. Although there are two chandeliers, note the narrow width of the room as evidenced by the placement. Photo: THE GREAT LADY DECORATORS by Adam Lewis.
James Amster created the landmark Amster Yard, an enclave at 211 1/2 East 49th Street, which he developed in 1944. His partner of 41 years was Robert Moyer. In 1967, Mike Wallace anchored the documentary The Homosexuals. He told he was close friends with James Amster and Amster's male long-term companion, men whom Wallace later described as "a wonderful old married couple" and "both people that he admired".


Amster Yard (interior)

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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/1986/06/12/obituaries/james-amster-77-decorator-dead.html

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Sir Edwin Hardy Amies, KCVO (17 July 1909 - 5 March 2003), was an English fashion designer, founder of the Hardy Amies label and best known for his official title as dressmaker for Queen Elizabeth II, from her accession in to the throne 1952 until his retirement in 1989. Initially discreet about his homosexuality, Amies became more candid in his old age; and, when speaking of Sir Norman Hartnell, he commented: "It's quite simple. He was a silly old queen and I'm a clever old queen". (P: Photo of 1952, where Hardy is shown working on his fashion design collection for next season (©17))

Amies and his partner, Kenneth Fleetwood, Design Director of Hardy Amies Ltd, were together for 43 years until Fleetwood's death in 1996. Amies died at home in 2003, aged 93.

He established the monarch’s crisp, understated style of dress. “I don’t think she feels clothes which are too chic are exactly very friendly,” he told one fashion editor. “The Queen’s attitude is that she must always dress for the occasion”.

Hardy Amies was born Edwin Amies on 17 July 1909 in Maida Vale, London. His father was an architect for the London County Council. His mother was a saleswoman for Madame Gray at Machinka & May, London, and then Madame Durrant on Dover Street, London. In his teens, he adopted his mother's maiden name, Hardy—and always cited her as the inspiration for his chosen professional path.


A 1950 fashion by Hardy Amies (©2)
Sir Edwin Hardy Amies was an English fashion designer, best known as official dressmaker for Queen Elizabeth II. Initially discreet about his homosexuality, Amies became more candid in old age; and, when speaking of Sir Norman Hartnell, he commented: "It's quite simple. He was a silly old queen and I'm a clever old queen". Amies and his partner, Kenneth Fleetwood, Design Director of Hardy Amies Ltd, were together for 43 years until Fleetwood's death in 1996. Amies died at home in 2003, aged 93.


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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edwin_Hardy_Amies

Kenneth Walter Fleetwood (born Wigan 11 November 1930; died London 9 August 1996.)'s career as one of Britain's leading but most modest and reticent of fashion designers culminated seven weeks before his death, in a fittingly intimate ceremony at the London fashion house of Hardy Amies. It took place on 18 June 1996, in that elegant establishment in Savile Row where Fleetwood had play-ed a key role for nearly 45 years. (Picture: 1961 London. Model Simone d'Allencourt with Sir Hardy Amies, by Frank Horvat)

At a small, informal presentation the Countess of Airlie, wife of the Lord Chamberlain and a Lady of the Bedchamber (herself an old friend and customer), handed over to Fleetwood, on behalf of the Queen, the insignia of the MVO. The award had been announced in the New Year's Honours List and was of particular significance to him, being an honour in the personal gift of the Queen herself.

Because Fleetwood was too ill to attend the investiture at Buckingham Palace, the presentation was made at the workplace where for four decades he had exerted an influence not only on the Royal Wardrobe but on two generations of faithful Amies customers. Within this setting, surrounded by his fellow workers, many of long standing, it was touchingly appropriate that Sir Hardy Amies, doyen of British fashion designers and Fleetwood's employer, friend and mentor of a lifetime, should have been able, at 87, to look upon his long-time protege with justifiable pride.

Fleetwood, who had led the studio design team which created the Queen's wardrobe for her hugely successful tour of South Africa in 1995, had been attending fittings and consultations with the Queen since Amies relinquished the role seven years ago on reaching the age of 80. But Fleetwood's first opportunity of attending the Queen as the salon's chief representative occurred in 1986 when Amies had suddenly to go abroad on business. The occasion was recalled by Amies in his autobiography, Still Here (1984), where he noted that his emissary had been greatly beguiled by the Queen's personality and her ready shafts of humour. Amies also noted that the Queen had sent back a message saying that she had spent a happy afternoon. Although Fleetwood was the soul of discretion regarding his visits to the palace it is not too difficult to speculate that his royal patron would have appreciated, as did his friends, his characteristically unaffected, no-nonsense, northern approach.

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Source: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/obituary-kenneth-fleetwood-1309416.html

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
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Philip Cortelyou Johnson (July 8, 1906 – January 25, 2005) was an influential American architect.

In 1930, he founded the Department of Architecture and Design at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City, and later (1978), as a trustee, he was awarded an American Institute of Architects Gold Medal and the first Pritzker Architecture Prize, in 1979. He was a student at the Harvard Graduate School of Design.

Johnson died in his sleep while at the Glass House retreat. He was survived by his life partner of 45 years, David Whitney, who died later that year at age 66.
"He was an eighteen-year-old or something. He was a student up at RISD [Rhode Island School of Design]…. We met because of [Jasper] Johns’ flag painting. He said, 'Why did you buy that flag?' It was his first question to me in the world. He just came up to me after a lecture [at Brown University] and said, 'Why did you buy the flag?' I said, 'Because Alfred Barr told me to.' I told the truth too soon, as usual. So then we got started." --Philip Johnson on meeting David Whitney, The Philip Johnson Tapes: Interviews by Robert A.M. Stern, Edited by Kazys Varnelis, The Monacelli Press, New York 2008

David Johnson died in his sleep while at the Glass House retreat. He was survived by his life partner of 45 years, David Whitney, who died later that year at age 66. "He was an eighteen-year-old or something. He was a student up at RISD [Rhode Island School of Design]…. We met because of [Jasper] Johns’ flag painting. He said, 'Why did you buy that flag?' It was his first question to me in the world. He just came up to me after a lecture [at Brown University] and said, 'Why did you buy the flag?' I said, 'Because Alfred Barr told me to.' I told the truth too soon, as usual. So then we got started."

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philip_Johnson
When Calvin Tomkins profiled Philip Johnson in The New Yorker in 1977, the architect pleaded with the author not to identify him as a gay man. Johnson was negotiating with AT&T executives for the commission to design the company's new headquarters on Madison Avenue in Manhattan, and he thought the disclosure might jeopardize his employment. "This was in the early stages, when I wasn't sure I had the job," Johnson said. Tomkins was "furious, but he complied with Johnson's request. The architect's lover, David Whitney, was discreetly identified in the article as "his friend."
Johnson was of a class and a generation who were routinely invited to the fanciest dinner parties, but who almost never brought along a male companion. On the other hand, single gay men were most welcome: "Mrs. (Vincent) Astor said she always had a homosexual to dinner" because they were "the only people who could talk," the architect remembered.
After Johnson had been living with David Whitney for more than fifteen years (they first met in 1960), Barbara Walters interrogated Johnson during a dinner party at the home of Kitty Carlisle Hart. "Why don't you ever bring your boyfriend to these events?" Walters demanded.
"I said, "By God, you're right, Barbara." Got up from the table and went home," Johnson recalled. "She was a very great help. I was so mean and selfish: "I'll be home late tonight," that kind of thing." --The Gay Metropolis: The Landmark History of Gay Life in America by Charles Kaiser
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David Whitney (1939 – June 12, 2005) was an American art curator, collector, gallerist, and critic. He led a very private life and was not well known outside the art world, even though he participated naked in the 1965 Claes Oldenburg happening Washes. He was the life partner of architect Philip Johnson (1906–2005) for 45 years until their deaths six months apart. He was also a close friend of Andy Warhol. (Picture: David Whitney by Andy Warhol)

Whitney, the son of a banker, was raised in Worcester, Massachusetts and studied architecture at the Rhode Island School of Design. While a student, he attended a lecture by Johnson and approached the architect afterwards, asking for a tour of the Glass House.

During the early to mid-1960s Whitney had a variety of roles in the contemporary art world. Early jobs at the Museum of Modern Art and several art galleries, including the Green Gallery and the Leo Castelli Gallery, led to him opening his own gallery in 1969. Some of the artists that exhibited at the David Whitney Gallery from September 1969 through March 1972 (when the gallery closed) included Neil Jenney, Jasper Johns, Ronnie Landfield, Ken Price, Kenneth Showell, William Pettet, and Phillip Wofford, amongst others. The David Whitney Gallery featured Lyrical Abstraction, Post-minimalism, and other current movements of the period.


David Whitney and Philip Johnson (Photo: Mariana Cook)

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Whitney
"He was an eighteen-year-old or something. He was a student up at RISD [Rhode Island School of Design]…. We met because of [Jasper] Johns’ flag painting. He said, 'Why did you buy that flag?' It was his first question to me in the world. He just came up to me after a lecture [at Brown University] and said, 'Why did you buy the flag?' I said, 'Because Alfred Barr told me to.' I told the truth too soon, as usual. So then we got started." --Philip Johnson on meeting David Whitney, The Philip Johnson Tapes: Interviews by Robert A.M. Stern, Edited by Kazys Varnelis, The Monacelli Press, New York 2008
"I’ll make decisions about our daily life. It could look like I was pushing him around, but in fact he wants to be pushed around. …I like everything about Philip. Einstein once said, 'My wife takes care of all the little things and I take care of all the big things.' I think I take care of all the little things." --David Whitney on his relationship with Philip Johnson, Couples: Speaking from the Heart by Mariana Cook, Chronicle Books, San Francisco 2000
"David has been a mainstay of my life since 1960…. It’s hard to imagine a life alone…. It’s a very happy life…. He takes the lead a good deal. It’s a wonderful feeling." --Philip Johnson on David Whitney, Couples: Speaking from the Heart
When Calvin Tomkins profiled Philip Johnson in The New Yorker in 1977, the architect pleaded with the author not to identify him as a gay man. Johnson was negotiating with AT&T executives for the commission to design the company's new headquarters on Madison Avenue in Manhattan, and he thought the disclosure might jeopardize his employment. "This was in the early stages, when I wasn't sure I had the job," Johnson said. Tomkins was "furious, but he complied with Johnson's request. The architect's lover, David Whitney, was discreetly identified in the article as "his friend." Johnson was of a class and a generation who were routinely invited to the fanciest dinner parties, but who almost never brought along a male companion. On the other hand, single gay men were most welcome: "Mrs. [Vincent) Astor said she always had a homosexual to dinner" because they were "the only people who could talk," the architect remembered. After Johnson had been living with David Whitney for more than fifteen years (they first met in 1960), Barbara Walters interrogated Johnson during a dinner party at the home of Kitty Carlisle Hart. "Why don't you ever bring your boyfriend to these events?" Walters demanded. "I said, `By God, you're right, Barbara.' Got up from the table and went home," Johnson recalled. "She was a very great help. I was so mean and selfish: `I'll be home late tonight,' that kind of thing." --Charles Kaiser. The Gay Metropolis: The Landmark History of Gay Life in America (Kindle Locations 3058-3066). Kindle Edition.
Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Edgar Vos (5 July 1931 – 13 January 2010) was a Dutch fashion designer.

Vos was born in Makassar in the Dutch East Indies (now Indonesia) in 1931. He studied fashion at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam.

He started a chain of fifteen boutique clothing stores known as Edgar Vos Boutiques.

Vos died of a heart attack while holidaying in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, a day after being admitted to a hospital suffering from what is suspected to have been pneumonia. He was 78.

He is survived by his partner, Geert Eijsbouts.


Edgar Vos was a Dutch fashion designer. Vos was born in Makassar in the Dutch East Indies (now Indonesia) in 1931. He studied fashion at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam. He started a chain of fifteen boutique clothing stores known as Edgar Vos Boutiques. Vos died of a heart attack while holidaying in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, a day after being admitted to a hospital suffering from what is suspected to have been pneumonia. He was 78. He is survived by his partner, Geert Eijsbouts.

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Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edgar_Vos

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Andre Oliver, Pierre Cardin's main assistant for more than 40 years, died at the Laennec Hospital in Paris on April 22, 1993. He was 61 and lived in Paris. (P: Pierre Cardin's assistant Andre Oliver with a model wearing a black and red outfit from the Pierre Cardin Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 1972 collection in his Paris studio. _ Image by © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis)

His friends said he died of AIDS.

Born in Toulouse, he attended the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris and joined Cardin in 1952 after serving in the French Army. He worked on the designer's first men's-wear collection, which was a big success in Europe and this country.

In the early 1960's, he and Cardin showed men's clothes based on the Edwardian look and caused a major revolution in the style of men's clothes in England and the United States. Later, it influenced the Japanese and is still a factor in avant-garde designs.

From the beginning, he worked on the couture collection as well, later adding ready-to-wear that was sold widely in the United States. For years he stepped on stage along with Cardin to acknowledge the applause at the end of a show, a rare case of an assistant receiving public acknowledgment.

While Cardin's great skill was tailoring, Oliver developed a facility for soft, fluid clothes. He was responsible for many of the evening dresses worn by Claude Pompidou, the wife of the late President of France; Bernadette Chirac, and other fans. He also was a popular host, entertaining prominent social figures like Lady Grace Dudley, Marie-Helene de Rothschild and Gianni Agnelli at dinner at his home on the Rue du Cherche-Midi.


Fashion designer Pierre Cardin being interviewed with Andre Oliver and Nicole Alphand at a room in The Hotel Pierre
There was a crisis when Pierre Cardin and Jeanne Moreau fell in love, depressing Andre Oliver, who announced he was considering suicide. So Cardin found him a better apartment, gave him a charge account at restaurants and discos and told Andre to select a valuable painting at the Galleries. "There are three I must have," Andre announced. He got all three. Andre died in 1993, at 61, after 41 years together with Pierre Cardin.


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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/1993/04/24/obituaries/andre-oliver-61-clothing-designer-for-pierre-cardin.html

Pierre Cardin, born Pietro Cardin, is an Italian-born French fashion designer who was born on 2 July 1922, at San Biagio di Callalta near Treviso. Cardin was known for his avant-garde style and his Space Age designs. He prefers geometric shapes and motifs, often ignoring the female form. He advanced into unisex fashions, sometimes experimental, and not always practical. He introduced the "bubble dress" in 1954.

The Algerian war was on, and when Pierre Cardin's handsome young aide Andre Oliver was drafted into the army as a private, Cardin designed his uniform. Then, when Andre was shipped out to the war, Cardin flew him home to Paris every weekend to work on the new collection. There was a crisis when Cardin and movie star Jeanne Moreau somehow, and inexplicably, fell in love, depressing Andre, who promptly announced he was considering suicide. So Cardin found him a better apartment, gave him a charge account at restaurants and discos and told Andre to select a valuable painting at the Galleries. "There are three I must have," Andre announced. He got all three. Andre died in 1993, at 61, after 41 years together with Pierre Cardin.

Pierre Cardin was also designated UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador in 1991.

On 16 October 2009, Pierre Cardin was nominated Goodwill Ambassador of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO).

Cardin was educated in central France. Beginning his career early, Cardin, aged 14, worked as a clothier’s apprentice, learning the basics of fashion design and construction. In 1939, he left home to work for a tailor in Vichy, where he began making suits for women. During World War II, he worked in the Red Cross, launching humanitarian interests that continue to this day.


Mini-dress, 1967-1968
Cardin was born in Venice to French parents and educated in France. After training as a tailor, he worked for two Paris design houses, Paquin and Schiaparelli. Dior then employed him during the era of the New Look.
This A-line mini dress is of stiff crepe material. It is decorated only with a relief pattern of geometric shapes at the neck and hem. It zips up at the centre back. Cardin's bold, futuristic clothes were designed for active young people. This fabric allows free movement, yet is stiff enough to maintain a clear-cut shape. This dress is from his ready-to-wear collection in 1968.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Cardin

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Vern Yip (born June 27, 1968, in Hong Kong) is an American interior designer based in Atlanta, Georgia. He periodically appeared on TLC's Trading Spaces through its fourth season, and was known for frequently including silk, candles and flowers in the rooms he designed. Yip and his partner, Craig Koch, welcomed son Gavin Joshua Mannox, born by surrogate, on January 6, 2010. The couple's second child, Vera Lillian Beatrix, was also born via surrogate on March 12, 2011.

Yip is one of the panel of judges on HGTV's Design Star. Yip hosted four seasons of HGTV's show Deserving Design. Yip just hosted an HGTV special called Urban Oasis, in which he designed a Chicago loft in the Trump International Hotel, to be given away to a winner.

Yip went to high school in northern Virginia at McLean High School in the class of 1986. After earning two degrees, just prior to entering his pre-medicine program, he changed his mind, and decided to get into architecture. Yip states he would have been quite happy running a design company, and never intended to become a television personality, but he's very pleased with the new show, and he felt it was what he was meant to do. Yip received his bachelors in economics from the University of Virginia, and a masters in management and architecture from the Georgia Institute of Technology. (Picture: Craig Koch)

Vern has a sister, who lives in Hong Kong. He was raised by his mother, who was a loving and strong presence in his life. Vern is involved in an array of volunteer activities, including doing design work for New York City's 2009 Snowflake Ball, a fundraiser for UNICEF.


Vern Yip (born June 27, 1968, in Hong Kong) is an American interior designer based in Atlanta, Georgia. He periodically appeared on TLC's Trading Spaces through its fourth season, and was known for frequently including silk, candles and flowers in the rooms he designed. Yip and his partner, Craig Koch, welcomed son Gavin Joshua Mannox, born by surrogate, on January 6, 2010. The couple's second child, Vera Lillian Beatrix, was also born via surrogate on March 12, 2011.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vern_Yip

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More Designers at my website: http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Art

More LGBT Couples at my website:
http://www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Real Life Romance
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Efva Katarina Attling, (born in February 18, 1952 in Stockholm) is a Swedish jewellery designer.

In the early 1980s she played in the band "X Models" and released the hit single Två av oss ("Two of us").

Her interest in design had her working for Levi's and H&M and in the mid 1990s she started her own line of jewellery.

She worked as a professional model for twelve years after being spotted by Eileen Ford. She was also famous for being one of Sweden's best professional disco dancers, when she worked with her friend and dancing colleague Annabelle Rice.

Attling is one of five sisters. She was married to pop singer/writer Niklas Strömstedt and by him has two children. She entered a civil union with Swedish pop singer Eva Dahlgren in 1996. In 2009 they got married, after Sweden passed its gender neutral marriage law.

Attling has received a medal from the Royal Swedish Patriotic Society in April 2011, for distinguishing herself as an internationally known jewellery designer. Her jewellry "Homo Sapiens" has been known to cause some commotion when being worn by Madonna in public.


Eva Dahlgren is a Swedish pop musician born 9 June 1960 in Umeå, Sweden. In 1996 Dahlgren made headlines in the Swedish press when she came out as a lesbian through her civil union with jewellery designer Efva Attling. In connection with the civil union, Dahlgren changed her surname to Dahlgren-Attling. Dahlgren was discovered by musician/producer Bruno Glenmark in 1978 after appearing on the TV show "Sveriges magasin" and her debut album Finns det nån som bryr sej om was released the same year.


Swinging Love Beads & Stars earrings (release Spring 2014) in Rapaport, December 2013.

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Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Efva_Attling

Eva Dahlgren (born June 9, 1960) is a Swedish pop musician, born 9 June 1960 in Umeå, Sweden. In 1996 Dahlgren made headlines in the Swedish press when she came out as a lesbian through her civil union with jewellery designer Efva Attling. In connection with the civil union, Dahlgren changed her surname to Dahlgren-Attling.

Dahlgren was discovered by musician/producer Bruno Glenmark in 1978 after appearing on the TV show "Sveriges magasin" and her debut album Finns det nån som bryr sej om was released the same year. In 1979 she placed third in Melodifestivalen (the tryout competition for the Eurovision Song Contest in Sweden). She toured Sweden in 1987 with Swedish pop duo Roxette, a tour that was attended for more than 100.000 people. Dahlgren's career grew steadily with several album releases during the 1980s but her definite breakthrough in Sweden came in 1991 with the hit album En blekt blondins hjärta which sold over half a million copies and netted the singer five Grammis awards. (Picture: Efva Attling)

Eva Dahlgren toured July - August 2008 together with Peter Jöback in Sweden, Norway and Finland. The tour was called "Himlen är inget tak", and a single with the same title was released.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eva_Dahlgren

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Peter Stamberg and Paul Aferiat, partners in Stamberg Aferiat Architecture in New York, were married on June 8, 2004. John J. Long, the city clerk of Somerville, Mass., officiated in the city hall there.

Mr. Stamberg (b. 1949) received a Bachelor of Fine Arts and a bachelor's degree in architecture from the Rhode Island School of Design. He also received a graduate diploma in semiotics and architecture from the Architectural Association School of Architecture in London. Mr. Stamberg is the son of Lois and Mel Stamberg of Huntington, N.Y. His mother retired as a guidance counselor at Huntington High School. His father, also retired, was an owner of West Suffolk Builders, a residential and commercial contractor that was in Huntington, and of Baxtercrafts, a furniture manufacturer that was in New York.

Mr. Aferiat (b. 1953) graduated from Carnegie Mellon University. He is a son of the late Charlotte Aferiat and Albert Aferiat, who lived in Woodbury, N.Y. His father worked in New York as the president of the United States unit of D. Porthault, the French manufacturer of bed and table linens.

The two met in October 1976 at the opening night gala at Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum in New York. A monograph on the couple's work, ''Stamberg Aferiat Architecture,'' was published by Rizzoli International in 1997.


Peter Stamberg and Paul Aferiat, partners in Stamberg Aferiat Architecture in New York, were married on June 8, 2004. John J. Long, the city clerk of Somerville, Mass., officiated in the city hall there. The two met in October 1976 at the opening night gala at Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum in New York. A monograph on the couple's work, ''Stamberg Aferiat Architecture,'' was published by Rizzoli International in 1997.


Shelter Island Home, New York

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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/2004/06/13/style/weddings-celebrations-peter-stamberg-paul-aferiat.html

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Walter Plunkett (June 5, 1902 in Oakland, California – March 8, 1982) was a prolific costume designer who worked on more than 150 projects throughout his career in the Hollywood film industry. He lived in West Los Angeles on Goshen Avenue with his devoted and much younger partner, Lee. Christopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy would visit them occasionally. "They were both into knitting." Bachardy remembered. "They knitted covers for their toilet seats. They knitted things all over the place." Plunkett retired in 1966, after having worked in films, on Broadway, and for the Metropolitan Opera. He spent the last years of his life with his partner Lee, whom he formally adopted so that he could inherit his estate. He died at age 79 in Santa Monica, California.

Born in Oakland, California, Plunkett studied law at the University of California, where he was a member of the California-Alpha chapter of Sigma Phi Epsilon fraternity, but showed greater interest in the school's theatrical group. He moved to New York City in 1923 and began work as a stage actor as well as a costume and set designer. After some time in Greenwich Village, he moved back to California, this time to Hollywood, and found work as a movie extra. (He can be seen dancing with Irene, another future top designer, in Erich von Stroheim's 1925 film The Merry Widow.) He soon made a career change to costume and wardrobe.

Plunkett's first credited work as a costume designer was the 1927 film Hard-Boiled Haggerty. At RKO, he developed a huge costume and wardrobe department that became a major studio asset. Given free rein, he set about creating costumes that rivaled the work of his contemporaries, such as Travis Banton and Adrian.


1934-Black-afternoon-dress-Walter-Plunkett 30s day dress long black floral white accents hat purse shoes photo print ad model magazine
Walter Plunkett was a prolific costume designer who worked on more than 150 projects throughout his career in the Hollywood film industry. He lived in West Los Angeles on Goshen Avenue with his devoted and much younger partner, Lee. Christopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy would visit them occasionally. "They were both into knitting." Bachardy remembered. "They knitted covers for their toilet seats. They knitted things all over the place." Walter formally adopted so that he could inherit his estate.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walter_Plunkett

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Andrew Tobias (born 20 April 1947) is an American journalist, author, and columnist. His main body of work is on investment, but he has also written on politics, insurance, and other topics. Since 1999, he has been the treasurer of the Democratic National Committee.

Tobias graduated from Harvard College in 1968 with an A.B. in Slavic languages and literatures. In 1972, he obtained his Masters of Business Administration degree from Harvard Business School. During his schooling, he wrote for New York Magazine, and after graduation became a contributing editor.

Tobias is also an author. Among his titles on investment are The Only Investment Guide You'll Ever Need, The Only Other Investment Guide You'll Ever Need, My Vast Fortune, Money Angles, The Invisible Bankers: Everything the Insurance Industry Never Wanted You to Know and The Funny Money Game. Tobias also wrote the semi-autobiographical novel The Best Little Boy in the World under the pen name "John Reid" in 1973. He used a pen name because he wasn't comfortable yet with publicly disclosing his homosexuality to a broad audience. This book was later republished in 1998 under his real name to coincide with the sequel, The Best Little Boy in the World Grows Up. Despite his writing and successful investing on his own behalf, he has never been employed in the investment industry. He parlayed his writings and advice into success in the software industry as well with his Andrew Tobias's Managing Your Money financial application, which was ultimately eclipsed by Quicken.


Charles Nolan, a fashion designer who proudly wore his politics on his sleeve, and also on his runway, died on January 30, 2011, at his home on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. He was 53. The cause was cancer of the head and neck, said Andrew Tobias, the financial writer, who was Mr. Nolan's partner of 16 years. Tobias also wrote the autobiography The Best Little Boy in the World under the pen name "John Reid" in 1973. Nolan was a force behind the expansion of mainstream American sportswear.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrew_Tobias
The Best Little Boy in the World by John Reid was my first "openly gay" book, and such a wonderful throwback. Good, old-fashioned self-hatred and inhibition are allowed, and it was even published under a pen name. ("John Reid" turned out to be finance guru and journalist Andrew Tobias.) And it's all so WASP-y, like me! Still closeted, I was scanning the shelves in a friend's apartment, and the second I saw the title The Best Little Boy in the World, I knew what it had to be about: the paralysis, the image-managing, always trying to say the right thing and do one's duty. And while we East Coast urbanites may think "all that's changed" for young gay men in 2010, it hasn't changed for any but the most privileged. (Not even: how privileged is Ken Mehlman?) I have not re-read Best Little Boy in years, but I am sure that today, 37 years after publication, it is still dead-on in terms of feelings. --David Pratt
Having come of age as a brow-beaten, Irish Catholic gay boy in the late 1970’s (am I that old?), I devoured The Best Little Boy in the World by Andrew Tobias, a lighthearted autobiography about a queer kid who’d been trained to willfully deny just about everything human about himself; I was sure that Andrew Tobias had somehow channeled me while writing it. I’m recovered now, thanks to a string of good therapists, a partner who chastises me should I momentarily regress into my BLBITW routine, and this book. --Nick Nolan
The Best Little Boy in the World by John Reid was the very first gay book I ever read, the one that started it all for me, and set me on my journey of reading and ultimately writing gay fiction. And it´s still the best coming of age, coming out book I´ve ever read. Full of humor and honesty, it´s one of those books that you start and read all the way through to the very end. Poignant and touching and witty, there´s a good reason it´s still a gay classic more than 30 years after it was published! --Rob Rosen
Charles Nolan (June 5, 1957 - January 30, 2011), a fashion designer who proudly wore his politics on his sleeve, and also on his runway, died on January 30, 2011, at his home on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. He was 53.
 
The cause was cancer of the head and neck, said Andrew Tobias, the financial writer, who was Mr. Nolan’s partner of 16 years. Tobias also wrote the autobiography The Best Little Boy in the World under the pen name "John Reid" in 1973. He used a pen name because he wasn't comfortable yet with publicly disclosing his homosexuality to a broad audience. This book was later republished in 1998 under his real name to coincide with the sequel, The Best Little Boy in the World Grows Up. 

Early in his career, Mr. Nolan was a major force behind the expansion of mainstream American sportswear labels like Bill Blass, Ellen Tracy and Anne Klein. But he was perhaps better known publicly for the work he did dressing private clients, including many prominent women on the political scene.

At the 2000 Democratic National Convention, for example, Tipper Gore was wearing a periwinkle Charles Nolan coat-and-dress ensemble when she was kissed so passionately by her husband, Vice President Al Gore, that the resulting image was widely described as humanizing Mr. Gore’s robotic reputation during his run for president. 

Since establishing his own label in 2004, Mr. Nolan recruited a number of his famous friends and clients to appear as models at his runway shows. Peggy Kerry, a sister of Senator John Kerry, walked in a show in 2007, and Kerry Kennedy, a daughter of Robert F. Kennedy, appeared on his runway in 2006. 



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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/31/fashion/31nolan.html?_r=1&#h[] (By Eric Wilson,A version of this article appeared in print on January 31, 2011, on page B7 of the New York edition.)Further Readings )

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Ben de Lisi (born May 31) is an American born fashion designer based in London. He is best known for his collections with high street store Debenhams, and as a mentor and judge on the television series Project Catwalk. He has also appeared on UK television show Come Dine With Me.

In 2009 he revealed his long-term relationship with his partner, Gerardo Vidaurre, had ended 18 months earlier. "I became single but not by choice, which was heartbreaking. I put my life on hold for two years waiting for him to come home." Unable to process the grief — "It hit me at a bad time and I just couldn't breathe" — he found it hard to get out of bed. His elderly parents — "the most important people in my life" — flew over from America for a month to look after him. "They just got me back on track and I started to put my ducks in a row."

He decided he could expand his interior design business, which he started a decade ago, and focus on his "BDL by Ben de Lisi" collection for Debenhams. "After 30 years of nurturing this brand — this child — it was time it went out and took care of Daddy for a change. When you're so close to something, you just don't realise how valuable a brand is. Because you're just dealing with the crap that's on hand, and the banks. You never realise what you can do when you put everything into perspective. I began to think: who's going to take care of me? I don't have a wife or a husband who's going to watch over me. I wanted the brand to pay me back." He also wanted to work from home — a ultra-stylish but modest terrace cottage built in 1862 on the river by Battersea Bridge he shares with his three French bulldogs, Luca, Noah and Tea.


Ben de Lisi with his three French bulldogs, Luca, Noah and Tea


Ben de Lisi is an American born fashion designer based in London. He is best known for his collections with high street store Debenhams. In 2009 he revealed his long-term relationship with his partner, Gerardo Vidaurre, had ended 18 months earlier. "I became single not by choice, which was heartbreaking. I put my life on hold for two years waiting for him to come home." Today he and Gerardo are seeing each other again but he's learned how important it is to be more independent in relationships.



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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_de_Lisi

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Pierre Alexandre Claudius Balmain (b. Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne, Savoie, 18 May 1914 – Paris, France, 29 June 1982) was a French fashion designer. Known for sophistication and elegance, he once said that "dressmaking is the architecture of movement." His companion was the Danish designer Erik Mortensen, who worked as a designer at Balmain from 1948 until 1991.

Balmain's father, who died when the future designer was seven years old, was the owner of a wholesale drapery business. His mother and her sisters operated a fashion boutique. Balmain studied architecture at the École des Beaux-Arts, but did not complete his studies. He spent his time there designing dresses. While attending the Ecole des Beaux Arts, Balmain went to Molyneux, who promised to give him a trial. Balmain then left his architectural studies to work for the fashion designer Edward Molyneux, for whom he worked from 1934 until 1939. He joined Lucien Lelong after World War II and opened his own fashion house in 1945. The house showcased long bell-shaped skirts with small waists - a line which later became popular as Dior's New Look. In 1951 he opened branches in the United States selling ready-to-wear clothes. (Picture: Erik Mortensen)

During the 1950s, Balmain popularized the stole for day as well as evening wear and created a vogue for sheath dresses beneath jackets. His talent as a designer lay in his ability to make simple, tailored suits as well as grand evening gowns, all with the same aesthetic of slender and elegant lines. Balmain also designed the iconic uniform of the Singapore Airlines Singapore Girl, loosely based on the traditional Indonesian kebaya. 


Pierre Alexandre Claudius Balmain (b. Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne, Savoie, 18 May 1914 – Paris, France, 29 June 1982) was a French fashion designer. Known for sophistication and elegance, he once said that "dressmaking is the architecture of movement." His companion was the Danish designer Erik Mortensen, who worked as a designer at Balmain from 1948 until 1991. When Pierre Balmain died in 1982, Erik Mortensen took over as head designer of the house. Mortensen died in 1998 at the age of 72.


Haute-couture deux-pièces (dress & jacket), ca. 1950s (©27)


Pierre Balmain

Pierre Balmain )

Erik Mortensen )

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Balmain

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
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Christopher Bailey MBE (born May 11, 1971, West Yorkshire, England) is Chief Creative Officer of Burberry, and is responsible for the company’s overall image including all advertising, corporate art direction, store design and visuals as well as the design of all Burberry collections and product lines. In 2009, he announced that he was in a relationship with British actor Simon Woods. On 31 August 2012 it was reported that Woods and Bailey had become engaged to be married.

Bailey, who was 38 in 2009, was born in Yorkshire, the son of a carpenter and a window dresser for Marks and Spencer. He graduated from the Royal College of Art with a Masters degree in 1994 and later received an honorary fellowship from the College in 2004. From 1994 to 1996 he was the Womenswear Designer at Donna Karan and Senior Designer of Womenswear at Gucci in Milan from 1996 to 2001. While in Milan, he met and began dating Geert Cloet, brand designer for Miu Miu. He split his time between his home in Milan and England. In 2004, Cloet was diagnosed with brain cancer. He and Bailey moved to Yorkshire to be near Bailey's family. Cloet died the next year. He joined Burberry in May 2001 as creative director and became chief creative director in November 2009. Bailey is credited with transforming the fortunes of the company.

In 2008, Bailey, alongside Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts, set up The Burberry Foundation, committed to dedicating global resources to help young people realise their dreams and achieve their goals and potential through their power and creativity. The Burberry Foundation invests in select charities focused on supporting young people in the key cities in regions where the majority of Burberry employees live and work, and where they are able to participate in volunteer roles with Burberry charity partners on the ground.


Christopher Bailey MBE (born 1971, West Yorkshire, England) is Chief Creative Officer of Burberry, and is responsible for the company's overall image including all advertising, corporate art direction, store design and visuals as well as the design of all Burberry collections and product lines. In 2009, he announced that he was in a relationship with British actor Simon Woods (born 1980). On 31 August 2012 it was reported that Woods and Bailey had become engaged to be married.



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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christopher_Bailey_%28fashion_designer%29

Simon Woods (born 1980) is an English actor best known for his role as Octavian in Season 2 of the British-American television series Rome and the 2005 Pride & Prejudice as Mr. Charles Bingley. He also starred as Dr Harrison in the BBC1 costume drama series Cranford, whose arrival in the village "sets female hearts racing."

He attended Eton College, then read English at Magdalen College, Oxford. After graduating from Oxford, Woods worked briefly at The Guardian before becoming an actor.

While at Oxford, he was in a relationship with Rosamund Pike that lasted two years. Despite the break-up, the two later played lovers Jane Bennet and Charles Bingley in Pride & Prejudice. Since 2009, Woods has been in a relationship with Christopher Bailey, the chief executive of the British fashion house, Burberry.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simon_Woods

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Francisco Costa (born 10 May 1964) is the Women's Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection. Costa won the Council of Fashion Designers America (CFDA) award for Womenswear Designer of the Year in June 2006 as well as in June 2008. Costa also won the National Design Award in 2009 in the category of Fashion Design. Since 1990 Costa's partner is John DeStefano Jr., a horse trainer and his rock. "He keeps me 100 percent together," says Costa. "He can't take much bullshit." Costa and DeStefano met at George Smith, the furniture store where Costa worked on Saturdays to supplement the salary he earned on Seventh Avenue.

Costa is the second youngest of five children. He grew up in Guarani, Brazil, where his mother, Maria-Francisca, owned a children's wear factory. She began her business producing dresses commissioned by a traveling salesman. Costa's father, Jacy Neves da Costa, ran a small ranch. In his hometown of 8,000 people, Costa put on fashion shows for charities. His size is compact and he has brown eyes. Being civic minded by nature, his mother was like the mayor of the town. She presided over her family. Costa remembers there being fifteen people at his family's lunch table.

Following his mother's death in 1981, he left with a friend for New York City in 1985. He was twenty-one and spoke no English at the time. He enrolled in a language class at Hunter College and took courses at the Fashion Institute of Technology at night. He obtained employment with Herbert Rounick, whose Seventh Avenue (Manhattan) company made dresses for Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass. Costa went to work for de la Renta after Rounick's death, designing for the firm's Japanese licenses. Costa credits de la Renta with teaching him the most about both designing clothes and life. He remained with the company for five years.


Francisco Costa is the Women's Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection. Costa won the Council of Fashion Designers America (CFDA) award for Womenswear Designer of the Year in 2006 and 2008. Since 1990 Costa's partner is John DeStefano Jr., a horse trainer and his rock. "He keeps me 100 percent together," says Costa. "He can't take much bullshit." Costa and DeStefano met at George Smith, the furniture store where Costa worked on Saturdays to supplement the salary he earned on Seventh Avenue.



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Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francisco_Costa_%28designer%29

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Born on April 24, 1952 in Arcueil, France, Gaultier was an only child who spent his youth struggling to escape the influence of his parents, who were both accountants and who hoped that their son would become a Spanish teacher. The future designer was greatly influenced by his grandmother, Marie Garrabe, a hypnotist and practitioner of alternative healing who encouraged him to pursue the unmanly pastimes of sketching and costume making.

Gaultier first realized the impact of his sketches when he was punished by his school teacher for drawing Folies Bergère showgirls. He was made to walk around school with the drawing pinned to his back. The punishment, however, only made the young Gaultier aware of his potential for showmanship.

At the end of the 1980s, Gaultier suffered some personal losses, including his lover and business partner for fifteen years Francis Menuge, who died of AIDS-related causes. Since then, there has been no mention of a significant other. (Picture: Jean Paul Gaultier holding a portrait of Francis Menuge)

The designer lives in Paris, where his business is headquartered, but also spends time in Italy, where his clothes are manufactured.

Gaultier never received formal training as a designer. Instead, he started sending sketches to famous couture stylists at an early age. Pierre Cardin was impressed by his talent and hired him as an assistant in 1970. Afterwards, he worked with Jacques Esterel in 1971 and Jean Patou later that year, then returning to manage the Pierre Cardin boutique in Manila from 1974-'75.


Francis Menuge, Jean-Jacques Picart and Jean Paul Gaultier
At the end of the 1980s, Gaultier suffered some personal losses, including his lover and business partner for fifteen years Francis Menuge, who died of AIDS-related causes. "I have been in love with the same person for 15 years," Gaultier said of his longtime companion. "It's my first love which continues. That person is a part of me." Since then, there has been no mention of a significant other. The designer lives in Paris, where his business is headquartered, but also spends time in Italy, where his clothes are manufactured.





Read more... )

Source: http://www.circa-club.com/gallery/gay_history_icons_jean_paul_gaultier.php

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
Amazon: Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Marc Jacobs (born April 9, 1963) is an American fashion designer. He is the head designer for Marc Jacobs, as well as Marc by Marc Jacobs, a diffusion line, with more than 200 retail stores in 80 countries. He had been the creative director of the French design house Louis Vuitton from 1997 to 2013. Jacobs was on Time Magazine's "2010 Time 100" list of the 100 most influential people in the world, and ranked 14th on Out Magazine's 2012 list of "50 Most Powerful Gay Men and Women in America".

From 2011 to 2013 his boyfriend was former Brazilian porn star Harry Louis. In October 2013, Louis announced on Instagram that the couple have split: So I would like to be the first one to share with you all the news… Me and Marc have decided not carry on with our relationship as boyfriends... The distance and lack of time because of work schedules aren’t really something realistic, and he’s such a beautiful and amazing person, that I think he deserve a bf who will stay at least in one of the cities that he leaves in. Also, I need that too… We love each other very much, and that it was a decision from both!!!! Every special minute we’ve spent together will be treasured, and a new chapter of our both lives has started… Both of us focusing in work, and make it work!!!! So, for those who were always supportive of us, please don’t be sad, live [sic] goes on, to all of us… And for those who were praying that this day were coming, there you have… Marc Jacobs and Harry Louis aren’t officially a couple anymore!!!!" (P: Marc Jacobs and Harry Louis)

Marc Jacobs and Lorenzo Martone split in 2010 after two years and an engagement together. But in April 2013, they were seen together as they Sunday-brunched together at Sant Ambroeus in New York's West Village. Relations between the fashion designer and the 17 years younger bicycle designer appeared cordial. In January 2015 the two were vacationing together in St. Barts, and Lorenzo wrote on his profile: “2015 vibes: Don’t let the fear of what COULD happen let nothing happen. A dream we dream alone is just a dream. A dream you dream together can become reality.”


Marc Jacobs and Lorenzo Martone split in 2010 after two years and an engagement together. But in April 2013, they were seen together as they Sunday-brunched  at Sant Ambroeus in New York's West Village. Relations between the fashion designer and the 17 years younger bicycle designer appeared cordial. In January 2015 the two were vacationing together in St. Barts, and Lorenzo wrote on his profile: “2015 vibes: Don’t let the fear of what COULD happen let nothing happen. A dream we dream alone is just a dream. A dream you dream together can become reality.”



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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marc_Jacobs

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Cristóbal Balenciaga Eizaguirre (January 21, 1895, Spain – March 23, 1972, Spain) was a Spanish Basque fashion designer and the founder of the Balenciaga fashion house.

In Paris, Balenciaga had a partner, Vladzio Zawrorowski d'Attainville, who designed hats, while Nicholas Biscarondo looked after the business side (as well as Balenciaga’s sexual needs). Balenciaga presented his first collection in August 1937, charging about 3,500 francs for a dress, and earning 193,200 francs in a month — a good start.

Balenciaga was born in Getaria, a fishing town in the Basque province of Gipuzkoa, on January 21, 1895. His mother was a seamstress, and as a child Balenciaga often spent time with her as she worked. At the age of twelve, he began work as the apprentice of a tailor. When Balenciaga was a teenager, the Marchioness de Casa Torres, the foremost noblewoman in his town, became his customer and patron. She sent him to Madrid, where he was formally trained in tailoring. (Balenciaga is notable as one of the few couturiers in fashion history who could use their own hands to design, cut, and sew the models which symbolized the height of his artistry.)

Balenciaga was successful during his early career as a designer in Spain. He opened a boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, which expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona. The Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs, but when the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, Balenciaga moved to Paris. Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937.


Evening dress, 1951
Cristóbal Balenciaga Eizaguirre (January 21, 1895, Spain – March 23, 1972, Spain) was a Spanish Basque fashion designer and the founder of the Balenciaga fashion house. In Paris, Balenciaga had a partner, Vladzio Zawrorowski d'Attainville, who designed hats, while Nicholas Biscarondo looked after the business side (as well as Balenciaga’s sexual needs). Balenciaga presented his first collection in August 1937, charging about 3,500 francs for a dress, and earning 193,200 francs in a month — a good start.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga

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Badgley Mischka is an American fashion label designed by Mark Badgley and James Mischka. Badgley and Mischka went to New York City's City Hall on March 22, 2013, to make their 28-year union official. The designers first met while students at the Parsons School of Design and launched their label in 1988 (followed by bridal, a category for which they would become internationally renowned, in 1993). They have since dressed everyone from Oprah to the Olsen twins in luxe evening wear.

James Mischka began at Rice University as a biomedical engineering major and ultimately graduated with degrees in art history and managerial studies in 1985. Badgley and Mischka met at Parsons School of Design in Manhattan, and found a common vision. The two launched the label Badgley Mischka in 1988, though their bridal business launched in 1993. Badgley and Mischka are partners in life and business. Their clothes have been worn by many celebrities, including Oprah Winfrey, Melissa Etheridge, and Tammy Lynn Michaels.

Badgley Mischka's looks are described as "red-carpet-destined evening wear" but generally produced with lighter fabrics and less construction. They are also known for fragrance, handbags, shoes and eyewear.

In September 2006, Badgley Mischka announced that Sharon Stone would replace Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen as spokesperson. In August 2007, it was announced that Teri Hatcher will be in the Fall 2007 campaign.

Badgley Mischka is also responsible for designing the second wedding dress worn by Kristin Davis as Charlotte York on Sex and the City. They also designed the dress Gossip Girl character Ivy Rhodes/Charlie Rhodes (Kaylee DeFer) wore in a debutante ball to welcome her into New York City high society.


Badgley Mischka is an American fashion label designed by Mark Badgley and James Mischka. Badgley and Mischka went to New York City's City Hall on March 22, 2013, to make their 28-year union official. The designers first met while students at the Parsons School of Design and launched their label in 1988 (followed by bridal, a category for which they would become internationally renowned, in 1993). They have since dressed everyone from Oprah to the Olsen twins in luxe evening wear.



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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Badgley_Mischka

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Perry Edwin Ellis (March 3, 1940 – May 30, 1986) was an American fashion designer who founded a sportswear house in the mid-1970s. n 1981, Ellis began a relationship with divorced attorney Laughlin McClatchy Barker  (1949 - January 2, 1986). Later that year, Ellis appointed Barker the President of licensing division of Perry Ellis International. They remained together until Barker's death in January 1986.

In February 1984, Ellis and his long-time friend television producer and writer Barbara Gallagher conceived a child together via artificial insemination. Their daughter, Tyler Alexandra Gallagher Ellis, was born in November 1984. Ellis bought a home for Gallagher and their daughter in Brentwood, Los Angeles, and would visit frequently. In 2011, Tyler released her first line of handbags using the name Tyler Alexandra.

Ellis was born in Portsmouth, Virginia, on March 3, 1940, the only child of Edwin and Winifred Rountree Ellis. His father owned a Coal and Oil company which enabled the family to live a comfortable middle-class life. Perry graduated from Woodrow Wilson High School in Portsmouth, Virginia in 1957. Perry then studied at the College of William and Mary, in Williamsburg, Virginia, and graduated with a degree in business administration in 1961. He enlisted in the United States Coast Guard reserve to avoid the military draft and after six months he enrolled at New York University, from which he graduated with a master's degree in retailing in 1963. (Picture: AIDS quilt for Perry Ellis And Laughlin Barker)


A Perry Ellis’ fashion from the ‘80s (©2)
Perry Ellis was an American fashion designer who founded a sportswear house in the mid-1970s. In 1981, Ellis began a relationship with divorced attorney Laughlin Barker. Later that year, Ellis appointed Barker the President of licensing division of Perry Ellis International. They remained together until Barker's death in January 1986. Ellis' health rapidly declined after Barker's death. He died of viral encephalitis on May 30, 1986.


AIDS Quilt

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perry_Ellis

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Florence Yoch (1890–1972) and Lucile Council (1898–1964), were influential California landscape designers, practicing in the first half of the 20th century in Southern California. (Picture: Florence Yoch)

The works of Florence Yoch & Lucile Council are documented in the book "Landscaping the American dream: the gardens and film sets of Florence Yoch, 1890-1972".

Born into a privileged life in southern California, Florence Yoch studied at the University of California at Berkeley, at Cornell, and at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, where she completed a degree in landscape gardening. She began practicing in 1918 and over 53 years completed more than 250 projects. Her work encompassed a broad range of landscape types from grand estates to campuses, parks, even a botanical garden and five movie sets. Lucille Council became an apprentice to the firm in 1921 and as partners they lived and worked together until Council’s death in 1964.

Prestigious commissions included the residence of Mrs. Howard Huntington in Pasadena, California, Shoshone Falls National Park, and the Wilshire Country Club in Los Angeles. The first female movie director, Dorothy Arzner, introduced Yoch to such distinguished Hollywood personages as Jack Warner and David Selznick, for whom Yoch designed the Tara set for Gone with the Wind. Yoch and Council traveled to North Africa to research the set for The Garden of Allah. With the advent of World War II, their work, greatly reduced, became more naturalistic, centered on the land, largely in the Pasadena region. Their designs were noted for the juxtaposition of informal, wild plantings and formal geometry, as well as the theatrical and unexpected.


The David O. Selznick estate in Beverly Hills
Florence Yoch (1890-1972) and Lucile Council (1898-1964), were influential California landscape designers, practicing in the first half of the 20th century in Southern California. She began practicing in 1918 and over 53 years completed more than 250 projects. Lucille Council became an apprentice to the firm in 1921 and as partners they lived and worked together until Council's death in 1964. Their work range from grand estates to campuses, parks, even a botanical garden and five movie sets.

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Source: http://tclf.org/pioneer/florence-yoch & http://tclf.org/pioneer/lucille-council

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Cary Grant (January 18, 1904 – November 29, 1986), born Archibald Leach, is consistently at the top of lists of the greatest movies stars of all time. (P: RKO publicity still from Suspicion, 1941 (©17))

Grant was bisexual, and was married five times, but he was regarded as a gay man by Hollywood insiders throughout his career.

He and actor Randolph SCOTT lived as a gay couple in Hollywood for many years. Their relationship scandalized Hollywood in the 1930s, and it continued through several of their marriages to women. In his book, Cary Grant: Grant's Secret Sixth Marriage (2004), Marc Eliot claims Grant had a sexual relationship with Scott after they met on the set of Hot Saturday (1932). A series of publicity photographs taken in 1933 of the two actors in their home and on the beach fanned the rumors, along with Scott's decision to continue living with Grant, even after Grant's bride, actress Virginia Cherrill, moved in with them. In Hollywood Gays (1996), Boze Hadleigh cites homosexual director George Cukor who said about the homosexual relationship between the two: "Oh, Cary won't talk about it. At most, he'll say they did some wonderful pictures together. But Randolph will admit it – to a friend." According to William J. Mann's book, Behind the Screen: How Gays and Lesbians Shaped Hollywood, 1910–1969, photographer Jerome Zerbe spent "three gay months" in the movie colony taking many photographs of Grant and Scott, "attesting to their involvement in the gay scene." In 1944 Scott and Grant stopped living together but remained close friends throughout their lives.


Cary Grant was an English actor who became an American citizen in 1942. Randolph Scott was an American film actor whose career spanned from 1928 to 1962. They met in 1932 when they were cast together in Hot Saturday. They lived together for many many years in Los Angeles. Toward the end of their lives, Scott and Grant were often seen together, on one occasion holding hands late at night in the Polo Lounge, alone except for the waiters. Scott died little more than 3 months after Grant.



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Stern, Keith (2009-09-01). Queers in History: The Comprehensive Encyclopedia of Historical Gays, Lesbians and Bisexuals (Kindle Locations 5564-5576). Perseus Books Group. Kindle Edition.

Orry-Kelly was the professional name of Orry George Kelly (31 December 1897 – 27 February 1964), a prolific Hollywood costume designer.

He was born in Kiama, New South Wales, Australia, and was known as Jack Kelly. His father William Kelly, was born on the Isle of Man and was a gentleman tailor in Kiama. Orry was a name of an ancient King of Man. He studied art in Sydney, and worked as a tailor's apprentice and window dresser.

He journeyed to New York to pursue an acting career. He shared an apartment there with Charlie Spangles and Cary Grant. At the time Cary Grant was Archibald Leach. They shared the apartment in Manhattan, where they carried on a domestic existence as a gay couple, developing a reputation for throwing wild parties. Orry-Kelly established himself as a designer of scenery and costumes for Broadway musicals, while Archie pursued a career as an actor. A job painting murals in a nightclub led to his employment by Fox East Coast studios illustrating titles. He designed costumes and sets for Broadway's Shubert Revues and George White's Scandals.

He went to Hollywood in 1932, working for all the major studios (Warner Brothers, Universal, RKO, 20th Century Fox, and MGM), and designed for all the great actresses of the day, including Bette Davis, Kay Francis, Olivia de Havilland, Katharine Hepburn, Dolores del Río, Ava Gardner, Ann Sheridan, Barbara Stanwyck, and Merle Oberon.


Orry-Kelly was the professional name of Orry George, a prolific Hollywood costume designer. A job painting murals in a nightclub led to his employment by Fox East Coast studios illustrating titles. He designed costumes and sets for Broadway's Shubert Revues and George White's Scandals. While in Los Angeles, he was living with Milton Owen, a former stage manager, a relationship that was acknowledged also by Kelly's mother. When he died, his pallbearers included Cary Grant, Tony Curtis, Billy Wilder and George Cukor and Jack Warner read his eulogy.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orry-Kelly

Randolph Scott (January 23, 1898 – March 2, 1987) was an American film actor whose career spanned from 1928 to 1962. As a leading man for all but the first three years of his cinematic career, Scott appeared in a variety of genres, including social dramas, crime dramas, comedies, musicals (albeit in non-singing and non-dancing roles), adventure tales, war films, and even a few horror and fantasy films. However, his most enduring image is that of the tall-in-the-saddle Western hero. Out of his more than 100 film appearances more than 60 were in Westerns; thus, "of all the major stars whose name was associated with the Western, Scott most closely identified with it." (P: Original studio publicity photo of Randolph Scott, ca. 1930s (©17))

Scott met Howard Hughes on a golf course, and they became lovers for a time. Scott and Cary Grant lived together as a gay couple for a number of years and remained close ever afterward. Toward the end of their lives, Scott and Grant were often seen together, on one occasion holding hands late at night in the Polo Lounge, alone except for the waiters.

Scott's more than 30 years as a motion picture actor resulted in his working with many acclaimed screen directors, including Henry King, Rouben Mamoulian, Michael Curtiz, John Cromwell, King Vidor, Alan Dwan, Fritz Lang, and Sam Peckinpah. He also worked on multiple occasions with prominent directors: Henry Hathaway (eight times), Ray Enright (seven), Edwin R. Marin (seven), André de Toth (six), and most notably, his seven film collaborations with Budd Boetticher.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Randolph_Scott

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Ogden Codman, Jr. (January 19, 1863 - January 8, 1951) was a noted American architect and interior decorator in the Beaux-Arts styles, and co-author with Edith Wharton of The Decoration of Houses (1897), which became a standard in American interior design.

Codman was born to Ogden Codman, Sr. (of Boston and the Codman House) and the former Sarah Bradlee in Boston, Massachusetts. He spent his youth from 1875 to 1884 at Dinard, an American resort colony in France, and on returning to America in 1884, studied at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

He was influenced in his career by two uncles, John Hubbard Sturgis (architect) and Richard Ogden (a decorator), and admired Italian and French architecture of the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries, as well as English Georgian architecture and the colonial architecture of Boston.

After brief apprenticeships with Boston architectural firms, Codman started his own practice in Boston, where he kept offices from 1891 to 1893, after which time he relocated his main practice from Boston to New York City. Codman also opened offices in Newport, Rhode Island as early as 1891, and it was in Newport that he first met novelist Edith Wharton. She became one of his first Newport clients for her home there, Land's End. In her autobiography, A Backward Glance, Wharton wrote:
We asked him to alter and decorate the house—a somewhat new departure, since the architects of that day looked down on house-decoration as a branch of dress-making, and left the field up to the upholsterers, who crammed every room with curtains, lambrequins, jardinières of artificial plants, wobbly velvet-covered tables littered with silver gew-gaws, and festoons of lace on mantelpieces and dressing tables.
Codman viewed interior design as "a branch of architecture".


Villa Leopolda
Ogden Codman, Jr. was an American architect and interior decorator in the Beaux-Arts styles, and co-author with Edith Wharton of The Decoration of Houses (1897). Wharton became one of his first Newport clients for her home there, Land's End. Subsequently she introduced Codman to Cornelius Vanderbilt II, who hired him to design the second and third floor rooms of his Newport summer home, The Breakers. Although a noted homosexual, on October 8, 1904, Codman married one of his commissioner, Leila Griswold Webb, widow of railroad magnate H. Walter Webb, who died unexpectedly in 1910.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ogden_Codman,_Jr.

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Richard Stewart Addinsell (13 January 1904 – 14 November 1977) was a British composer, best known for film music, primarily his Warsaw Concerto, composed for the 1941 film Dangerous Moonlight (also known under the later title Suicide Squadron).

Richard Addinsell was born in Woburn Square, London, to William Arthur Addinsell, who was a chartered accountant, and his wife, Annie Beatrice Richards. The younger of two brothers, Addinsell was educated at home before attending Hertford College, Oxford, to study Law but left after just 18 months. He then became interested in music.

In 1925, he enrolled at the Royal College of Music but lasted only two terms before leaving, again without obtaining any formal qualification. By this time Addinsell was already collaborating with Noel Gay, among others, in an André Charlot Revue. More work for Charlot in 1927 was followed in 1928 by a collaboration with Clemence Dane on Adam's Opera at The Old Vic. In 1929, he completed his informal education by touring Europe to visit major theatrical and musical centres such as Berlin and Vienna.

In 1932, with Clemence Dane, he wrote the incidental music for the Broadway adaptation of Alice in Wonderland by Eva Le Gallienne, starring Josephine Hutchinson (produced 1933). In 1947 it was revived, starring Bambi Linn.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Addinsell

Victor Frank Stiebel (1907- 1976) was a South African-born British couturier.

Born in Durban he arrived in Britain in 1924 to study architecture at Jesus College, Cambridge. Having designed for theatre wardrobe at university, he worked as a dress designer for the House of Reville for three years beginning in 1929 until he opened his own fashion house in Brunton Street in 1932. Terry Reville was a court designer and his fashion house was one of the foremost in London before the First World War. Here Stiebel learned the art of fashion design, this being the method by which the trade was learned prior to fashion design courses being established at the art schools.

He enlisted for the Second World War in 1940, closing his house, but he was allowed to continue designing while involved with the services, his designs being manufactured as part of the war effort using the government stock fabrics which were all that was available at the time. Called "Utility Fashion", each designer produced a coat, dress, suit and shirt or blouse. He returned to designing in 1946, working for Jacqmar, and becoming Chairman of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers. He reopened his own house in 1958, having great initial success, but being forced to close after only 5 years in 1963 on health grounds, having become confined to a wheel chair as a result of multiple sclerosis. Hardy Amies was kind enough to take all 120 of Stiebel's employees.

Stiebel was commissioned to design new uniforms for the WRENS (1951) and the WRAF (1954) whilst also creating the going-away outfit for Princess Margaret on her marriage to Lord Snowdon in 1960.


Victor Stiebel was a South African-born British couturier. Richard Addinsell was a British composer, best known for film music, primarily his Warsaw Concerto, composed for the 1941 film Dangerous Moonlight. Following the death of Stiebel, in 1976, the frail composer became even more withdrawn. He died little more than one year later, in 1977. The royalties for Warsaw Concerto belonged to author Jilly Cooper's parents, for many years their neighbor, Addinsell probably gave it to them as thanks for being discreet about his relationship with Stiebel.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victor_Stiebel

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
James Deering (1859 – September 1925) was an industrialist executive in the family Deering Harvester Company and subsequent International Harvester, a socialite, and an antiquities collector. He is known for his landmark Vizcaya estate, where he was an early 20th-century resident on Biscayne Bay in the present day Coconut Grove district of Miami, Florida. Begun in 1910, with architecture and gardens in a Mediterranean Revival style, Vizcaya was his passionate endeavor with artist Paul Chalfin, and his winter home from 1916 to his death in 1925.

James Deering was born in 1859 in the western Maine town of South Paris, Maine. He was the son of William Deering and his second wife, Clara Hammond Deering. His older half-brother was the arts patron Charles Deering.

His father, who had inherited the family Woolen Mill and was landowner in the Northeast, invested in a farm equipment manufacturing company, renaming it the Deering Harvester Company. In 1873 he moved the family to Chicago, Illinois. New 'Deering Harvester Company' reaper machinery enabled Midwestern United States farmers to harvest an acre of grain per hour, a substantial increase in productivity that increased the profitability of Mid-West agriculture significantly. The Deering Harvester Company grew in value, so that by the end of the nineteenth century the Deerings had become one of America's wealthiest families, although his father William was conservative in family spending. His parents did acquire a residence in St. Augustine, Florida for the winter season. James Deering's older brother, Charles Deering, joined the family business in the 1880s, after attending the United States Naval Academy and nine years in the Navy. James Deering attended one year each at Northwestern University and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology before also joining the company at the same time.


©Elisa. Vizcaya
James Deering (1859–1925) was an industrialist executive in the family Deering Harvester Company and subsequent International Harvester, a socialite, and an antiquities collector. He is known for his landmark Vizcaya estate, where he was an early 20th-century resident on Biscayne Bay. Begun in 1910, with architecture and gardens in a Mediterranean Revival style, Vizcaya was his passionate endeavor with artist Paul Chalfin, and his winter home from 1916 to his death in 1925.


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Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Deering

John Singer Sargent (January 12, 1856 – April 14, 1925) was an American artist, considered the "leading portrait painter of his generation" for his evocations of Edwardian era luxury. During his career, he created roughly 900 oil paintings and more than 2,000 watercolors, as well as countless sketches and charcoal drawings. His oeuvre documents worldwide travel, from Venice to the Tyrol, Corfu, the Middle East, Montana, Maine, and Florida. (Picture: Self Portrait, 1906, oil on canvas, 70 x 53 cm, Uffizi Gallery, Florence)

An American expatriate who was trained in Paris prior to moving to London, Sargent enjoyed international acclaim as a portrait painter, though not without controversy and some critical reservation; an early submission to the Paris Salon, his Portrait of Madame X was intended to consolidate his position as a society painter, but it resulted in scandal instead. From the beginning his work was characterized by remarkable technical facility, particularly in his ability to draw with a brush, which in later years inspired admiration as well as criticism for a supposed superficiality. His commissioned works were consistent with the Grand manner of portraiture, while his informal studies and landscape paintings displayed a familiarity with Impressionism. In later life Sargent expressed ambivalence about the restrictions of formal portrait work, and devoted much of his energy to mural painting and working en plein air.

Before Sargent's birth, his father FitzWilliam (b. 1820 Gloucester, Massachusetts) was an eye surgeon at the Wills Eye Hospital in Philadelphia 1844-1854. After John's older sister died at the age of two, his mother Mary (née Singer) suffered a breakdown, and the couple decided to go abroad to recover. They remained nomadic expatriates for the rest of their lives. Though based in Paris, Sargent's parents moved regularly with the seasons to the sea and the mountain resorts in France, Germany, Italy, and Switzerland. While Mary was pregnant, they stopped in Florence, Italy because of a cholera epidemic. Sargent was born there in 1856. A year later, his sister Mary was born. After her birth, FitzWilliam reluctantly resigned his post in Philadelphia and accepted his wife's entreaties to remain abroad. They lived modestly on a small inheritance and savings, living a quiet life with their children. They generally avoided society and other Americans except for friends in the art world. Four more children were born abroad, of whom only two lived past childhood.


Thomas E. McKeller
John Singer Sargent was an American artist, considered the "leading portrait painter of his generation" for his evocations of Edwardian era luxury.His male nudes reveal complex and well-considered artistic sensibilities about the male physique and male sensuality; this can be particularly observed in his portrait of Thomas E. McKeller (an African American elevator operator he befriended), but also in Tommies Bathing, nude sketches for Hell and Judgement, and his portraits of young men. Sargent scholars accept an affair with Louise Burkhardt, the model for Lady with the Rose.

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Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Singer_Sargent
Renowned society painter John Singer Sargent was exploring the male nude in his public art and private albums. His use of Thomas E. McKeller, an African American elevator operator he befriended, as the model for many of his black-and-white nudes speaks to Sargent's impulse to retink racial paradigms, even as he is caught in them. Day, von Gloeden, and Sargent are part of a tradition of negotiating sexuality and race through art, one that stretches back to Thoreau, Melville, and Stoddard. Art historian Trevor Fairbrother points out that Sargent's male nudes have a sensuous quality, often reclining in positions associated with the female nude. This pose is in direct contrast to patriotic statuary.
Technology and consumer capitalism helped bring some of these artists' images to a broader public. Inexpensive and easily available photographic prints - called studio cards - were now available through mass reproduction, and copies of artworks could be easily obtained by middle-class and even working-class people. This meant that art, once owned only by the wealthy, was becoming democratized and democratizing in a new way.
Most art historians agree that von Gloeden had sexual relationship with men and that Day, Eakins, and Sargent had romantic, if not physical, relationships with men. Women and men who desired their own sex had not found a significant level of freedom in America. But these female and male artists were able to live with a certain amount of visibility, with privileges the ordinary person did not have. --A Queer History of the United States by Michael Bronski
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Paul Chalfin was an artist and interior designer with an interest in architecture, most known for his work on Villa Vizcaya.

Paul Chalfin was born on November 2, 1874 in New York to Colonel Samuel Fletcher Chalfin and Jane Voorhees (Connolly) Chalfin.

In 1894 Chalfin began studying at Harvard University and left after two years to become an artist, enrolling at the Art Students League of New York to study painting. After graduation in 1898 he was accepted at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, France where he studied painting with Jean-Léon Gérôme, a historic genre painter who had previously taught Thomas Eakins. Although Chalfin possessed excellent taste in building design, utilized his extensive observation of European buildings and monuments, and liked being mistaken for an architect, he never studied or obtained a degree in architecture, nor was he an architect.

While studying in Paris, Chalfin also traveled to Italy in 1899. In 1902 he received honorable mention for the Lazarus Scholarship for his mural painting on the subject of spring. Chalfin returned to Massachusetts in 1903 to succeed Walter T. Cabot as Curator of Chinese and Japanese art at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. While Curator he published a 27-paged catalogue entitled 'Japanese wood carvings, architectural and decorative fragments from temples and palaces.'


Paul Chalfin by Albert Sterner, 1916

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Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Chalfin

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Ian & Marcel was founded in 1979 by two Canadians – Ian H. Cooper (1946-1992) and Marcel B. Aucoin (1951-1991). Both trained in Canada, they met in 1976 in Toronto, where Ian was studying Fashion Desing at Ryerson Polytechnic Institute and Marcel Home and Textile Design at Sheridan School of Design. They moved to London in the late 1970s, where Cooper completed a masters degree in fashion at the St Martins School of Art. In the UK, the duo quickly established a reputation for their exquisitely hand-painted garments, and pleated silks. The latter were inspired by the work of Mariano Fortuny (1871 – 1949).

Cooper and Aucoin saw an exhibition of Fortuny’s work in 1980 at the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery. Obviously entranced, they skilfully updated the Fortuny-look for the 1980s silhouette as this wedding dress elegantly demonstrates.

The execution of the veil, which features roses ‘drawn’ in silicone rubber, also brings Ian & Marcel’s historically inspired wedding gown into the contemporary. The duo developed a silicone rubber and silk technique to create stitch-free seams and hems, and decorative elements.

Ian & Marcel bequeathed a significant collection of their work to the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1992. Both designers sadly succumbed to AIDS related illnesses in the early 1990s. Reflecting on their approach, Lady Holly Rumbold, who co-wrote Ian and Marcel: Hand Painted and Pleated Silks with Elizabeth Vernon in 1993 (Terrence Higgins Trust), wistfully observed:
‘Ian & Marcel reminded us of medieval knights, whose quest was for beauty’s perfection. They consecrated their lives to their art and the realisation of their ideals, with the same single-mindedness and fervour of Parsifal in pursuit of the Holy Grail’.


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Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Charles William "Billy" Haines (January 2, 1900 – December 26, 1973) was an American film actor and interior designer. He was a star of the silent era until the 1930s, when Haines' career was cut short by MGM Studios due to his refusal to deny his homosexuality. Haines never returned to film and instead started a successful interior design business with his life partner and was supported by friends in Hollywood.

Haines was probably born on January 2, 1900 in Staunton, Virginia, the third child of George Adam Haines, a cigar maker, and Laura Virginia Haines (née Matthews). Two older siblings died in infancy. He had four younger siblings: Lillian, born in 1902; Ann, born in 1907; George, Jr., born in 1908; and Henry, born in 1917. He was baptized at the Trinity Episcopal Church in Staunton at the age of eight, where he later sang in the choir. He became fascinated with stage performance and motion pictures at an early age, spending hours watching early silent films in the local theatres.

Haines ran away from home at the age of 14, accompanied by another unidentified young man whom Haines referred to as his "boyfriend". The pair went first to Richmond and then to Hopewell, which had a reputation for immorality. Haines and his boyfriend got jobs working at the local DuPont factory, producing nitrocellulose for $50 a week. To supplement their income, the couple opened a dance hall, which may have also served as a brothel.

His parents, frantic over his disappearance, tracked him through the police to Hopewell. Haines did not return home with them, remaining instead in Hopewell and sending money back home to help support the family. The couple remained in Hopewell until most of the town was destroyed by fire in 1915. Haines moved to New York City. It is unclear whether his boyfriend accompanied him. Following the bankruptcy of the family business and the mental breakdown of George, Sr., the family moved to Richmond in 1916. Haines returned home in 1917 to help support them. With his father recovered and employed, Haines returned to New York City in 1919, settling into the burgeoning gay community of Greenwich Village. He worked a variety of jobs and was for a time the kept man of an older woman before becoming a model. Talent scout Bijou Fernandez discovered Haines as part of the Samuel Goldwyn Company's "New Faces of 1922" contest and the studio signed him to a $40 a week contract. He traveled to Hollywood with fellow contest winner Eleanor Boardman in March of that year.


Edith Gwynne Wilkerson (wife of Trocadero owner Billy Wilkerson), Jean Harlow, William Powell, William Haines' lover Jimmy Shields (standing), Anderson Lawler, unidentified man (standing), William Haines, Edith's sister Marge (bottom), Cafe Trocadero, 1935 (©2)
William Haines was a film actor and interior designer. In New York in 1926, Haines met Jimmie Shields, probably a pick-up on the street. Haines convinced Shields to move to Los Angeles. In 1933 Haines was asked to choose between a sham marriage and Shields. Haines chose Shields and they remained together for the rest of their lives. Soon after Haines died, Shields, who suffered from Alzheimer's Disease, put on Haines' pajamas, took an overdose of pills, and crawled into their bed to die.


Jimmie Shields & William Haines were interred side by side in Woodlawn Memorial Cemetery. William Haines died from lung cancer; soon afterward Jimmie Shields, who suffered from Alzheimer's disease, put on Haines' pajamas, took an overdose of pills, and crawled into their bed to die.



George Cukor’s Beverly Hills residence in 1935. “The house suits me perfectly, and I know that I belong here,” said Cukor. “That’s his skill and his talent.” Dark walls and velvet draperies added drama to the Georgian-inspired dining room.

Read more... )

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Haines

more pictures )

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Elisabeth (Bessy) Marbury (June 19, 1856 – January 22, 1933) was a pioneering American theatrical and literary agent and producer who represented prominent theatrical performers and writers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and helped shape business methods of the modern commercial theater. She was the longtime companion of Elsie de Wolfe (later known as Lady Mendl), a prominent socialite and famous interior decorator.

Marbury was born and raised in the affluent and cultured home of one of 19th century New York's oldest and most prominent "society" families. She was reputedly a relation of Anne Hutchinson (née Anne Marbury), the religious liberal who became one of the founders of Rhode Island after her banishment from Massachusetts Bay Colony. Marbury both used and defied these connections during the Victorian era to establish herself as an important literary and theatrical talent agent and theatrical producer, helping to define and create these very professions as they emerged in the new world of mass production, advertising and popular culture in post-Civil War American society.

For many, Marbury remains a bundle of contradictions. Although she was the embodiment of female independence in almost every way, she initially opposed suffrage. She made a bold reversal once women in the United States did receive the right to vote, and in 1918 she became active in the Democratic Party, serving as a delegate. She was also a passionate convert to Roman Catholicism. She was likewise very active in the Knights of Columbus, a Catholic organization. In 1923 she published an autobiography, My Crystal Ball:Reminiscences (NY: Boni and Liveright, [1923]). She had earlier published Manners: A Handbook of Social Customs in 1888.


Elsie de Wolfe is widely recognized as the founder of the field of interior designer. Bessie Marbury was a highly successful theatrical agent, as well as the woman who made a series of suggestions to de Wolfe that led to the interior designer becoming a pioneer in her field. She lived openly with Elsie De Wolfe in what many observers accepted as a lesbian relationship. De Wolfe was noticeably absent from Marbury's funeral, despite the fact that she was the prime beneficiary of Marbury's will.
Less well known was Elizabeth Arden’s intimate relationship with literary agent Bessie Marbury. It was perhaps a case of opposites attract: Arden was beautiful, fit, and politically conservative, while Marbury was an older, obese political firebrand. While they were together, Arden supported her girlfriend’s Democratic fundraising and feminist activities. They spent many weekends at Marbury’s Maine home, Lakeside Farm. After Marbury’s death in 1933, Arden bought the property with the intention of fulfilling Marbury’s wish that it be turned into a home for working women—though it eventually became part of a luxury resort instead.


Read more... )

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elisabeth_Marbury

Elsie de Wolfe (also known as Lady Mendl) (December 20, 1865 – July 12, 1950) was an American actress, interior decorator, nominal author of the influential 1913 book The House in Good Taste, and a prominent figure in New York, Paris, and London society. According to The New Yorker, "Interior Design as a profession was invented by Elsie de Wolfe." During her married life, the press usually referred to her as Lady Mendl.

In the 18th century, interior decoration was the purview of upholsterers (who sold fabrics and furniture) and architects (who employed a variety of craftsmen and artisans to complete interior design schemes for clients). In the 19th century, the skills of designers such as Candace Wheeler and design firms such as Herter Brothers were well known. De Wolfe reaped publicity and was one of the field's most famed practitioner in the early 20th century, a period that also saw an increase of interest in interior design in the popular press. Among her clients were Anne Vanderbilt, Anne Morgan, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Milbank Anderson (philanthropist) and Adelaide and Henry Clay Frick. She transformed the design of wealthy homes from the dark Victorian style into designs featuring light, fresh colors and a reliance on 18th-century French furniture and reproductions.



Read more... )

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsie_de_Wolfe

Florence Nightingale Graham (December 31, 1884 – October 18, 1966), who went by the business name Elizabeth Arden, was a Canadian American businesswoman who founded what is now Elizabeth Arden, Inc., and built a cosmetics empire in the United States. At the peak of her career, she was one of the wealthiest women in the world.

Arden was born in 1884 in Woodbridge, Ontario, Canada. Her parents had emigrated to Canada from Cornwall, United Kingdom in the 1870s. Her father, William Graham, was Scottish and her mother, Susan, was Cornish and had arranged for a wealthy aunt in Cornwall to pay for her children's education.[1] Arden dropped out of nursing school in Toronto.

She then joined her elder brother in Manhattan, working briefly as a bookkeeper for the E.R. Squibb Pharmaceuticals Company. While there, Arden spent hours in their lab, learning about skincare. She then worked—again briefly—for Eleanor Adair, an early beauty culturist, as a "treatment girl".

In her salons and through her marketing campaigns, Elizabeth Arden stressed teaching women how to apply makeup, and pioneered such concepts as scientific formulation of cosmetics, beauty makeovers, and coordinating colors of eye, lip, and facial makeup.



Read more... )

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_Arden

Days of Love: Celebrating LGBT History One Story at a Time by Elisa Rolle
Paperback: 760 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform; 1 edition (July 1, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1500563323
ISBN-13: 978-1500563325
CreateSpace Store: https://www.createspace.com/4910282
Amazon (Paperback): http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500563323/?tag=elimyrevandra-20
Amazon (Kindle): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZG0VHY/?tag=elimyrevandra-20

Days of Love chronicles more than 700 LGBT couples throughout history, spanning 2000 years from Alexander the Great to the most recent winner of a Lambda Literary Award. Many of the contemporary couples share their stories on how they met and fell in love, as well as photos from when they married or of their families. Included are professional portraits by Robert Giard and Stathis Orphanos, paintings by John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini, and photographs by Frances Benjamin Johnson, Arnold Genthe, and Carl Van Vechten among others. “It's wonderful. Laying it out chronologically is inspired, offering a solid GLBT history. I kept learning things. I love the decision to include couples broken by death. It makes clear how important love is, as well as showing what people have been through. The layout and photos look terrific.” Christopher Bram “I couldn’t resist clicking through every page. I never realized the scope of the book would cover centuries! I know that it will be hugely validating to young, newly-emerging LGBT kids and be reassured that they really can have a secure, respected place in the world as their futures unfold.” Howard Cruse “This international history-and-photo book, featuring 100s of detailed bios of some of the most forward-moving gay persons in history, is sure to be one of those bestsellers that gay folk will enjoy for years to come as reference and research that is filled with facts and fun.” Jack Fritscher
reviews_and_ramblings: (Default)
Kaffe Fassett (born December 7, 1937) is an American-born artist who is best known for his colourful designs in the decorative arts—needlepoint, patchwork, knitting, painting and ceramics. "Colour is his very medium, whatever the substance he uses." Fassett has resided in England since 1964. He lives with Brandon Mably: his partner and studio manager since 1990.

The second of five children, Fassett was born in 1937 in San Francisco, California, to parents William & Madeleine. He is the great-grandson of the wealthy businessman, lawyer and United States Congressman Jacob Sloat Fassett, and it was his great-great grandparents who founded the Crocker Art Museum in Sacramento, California. He received a scholarship to the School of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston at the age of 19, but shortly left school to paint in London and moved there to live in 1964.

In the late 1960s Fassett met the Scottish fashion designer Bill Gibb, with whom he was in a relationship for a while. Until Gibb's premature death in 1988, they were very close friends and design collaborators, with Fassett creating many of the multicoloured, complex knitwear designs that became one of Gibb's trademarks. When one of Bill Gibb's designs was chosen by Beatrix Miller of Vogue as the 1970 Dress of the Year, the ensemble included a Fassett hand-knitted waistcoat, showing that traditional textile handicrafts had become an acceptable aspect of mainstream fashion. Fassett and Gibb worked together through to the end, collaborating on Gibb's final collection in 1985.


Kaffe Fassett is an American-born artist who is best known for his colourful designs in the decorative arts—needlepoint, patchwork, knitting, painting and ceramics. "Colour is his very medium, whatever the substance he uses." He lives with Brandon Mably: his partner and studio manager since 1990. He is the great-grandson of the wealthy businessman, lawyer and US Congressman Jacob Sloat Fassett, and it was his great-great grandparents who founded the Crocker Art Museum in Sacramento, California.


Renaissance, Evening coat, 1979 (http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O84084/renaissance-evening-coat-kaffe-fassett/)
The designer Kaffe Fassett used a variety of textured yarns in muted colours to create this magnificent coat. It was hand-knitted by Zoe Hunt. Predominantly worked in stocking stitch, it reveals Fassett’s unorthodox, creative and highly influential approach to design. The shaping of this ankle-length garment with full sleeves draws upon Renaissance and Eastern dress.
Kaffe Fassett was born in San Francisco and came to live in England in 1964. An art student, he did not begin knitting until his late twenties. His early commercial collections were commissioned by Missoni and Bill Gibb.
Fassett typically uses geometric patterns in a rich palette of different hues. He summed up his philosophy of colour in an interview in Vogue Knitting International in 2002: 'Why limit yourself to just one shade of red when you can use 17?'


Read more... )

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaffe_Fassett

Further Readings )

More Fashion Designers at my website: www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Art

More Real Life Romances at my website:
www.elisarolle.com/, My Ramblings/Real Life Romance

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All cover art, photo and graphic design contained in this site are copyrighted by the respective publishers and authors. These pages are for entertainment purposes only and no copyright infringement is intended. Should anyone object to our use of these items please contact by email the blog's owner.
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